Computerized embroidery: Difference between revisions

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|is_part_of_syllabus=Machine embroidery
|is_module_of=Computerized embroidery
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|status=to improve
|see_also=Embroidery software,
Embroidery machine,
Embroidery glossary,
Concepts of computerized embroidery,
Embroidery and sewing needle,
Embroidery stitch type,
Hooping and stabilizing in computerized embroidery,
Embroider on socks,
Embroidery patch,
Computerized embroidery in education,
Conference embroidery,
Hotfix stone
|cat_syllabus=Computerized embroidery
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== Introduction ==
== Introduction ==


Many modern sewing machines (including the ones for the home market) can be computer-controlled. '''Computer-controlled sewing machines''' are also known as '''computerized sewing machines'''. Good sewing machines can sew, stitch and quilt. I.e. you get three machines in one. '''Computerized embroidery machines''' can be a different kind of machines. However, many sewing machines can be turned into an embroidery machine by adding a hardware module. Design software exists in various form, e.g. special-purpose tools for various design stages and whole design suites. Designs are both sold and also available as open "source". Converter software between various control formats exists, however depending on your sewing machine you will have to make an effort for finding the right tool.
'''Computerized embroidery''', also called '''Computer-controlled embroidery''' or simply '''machine embroidery''' is a kind of [[Computer-aided design and manufacturing]] (CAD/CAM).


We probably can distinguish between the following kinds of models with respect to computer control:
See the {{goblock|content=[[Machine embroidery]]|nowrap=yes}} portal page for a list of all embroidery-related topics.
* computer-controlled (directly from a computer). I imagine that these could exist in industry.
* computer-controlled (via file upload, i.e. specific firmware in the machine will read a proprietary CNC file and execute it). That's the solution existing in mid and high-end home machines (in the $500 to $10000 range). A good model (like a Swiss Bernina that can both sew and stitch will cost around CHF 3000.-). Entry-level computerized embroidery-only machines are not as frequent.
* Computer-powered, i.e. the machine will have more than a single motor and stuff is synchronized with a computer instead of complex mechanics. Typically, low and mid-end home machines.


Currently, this page focuses '''on links''' about '''computerized embroidery'''. See also [[fab lab]], an introduction to end user-created design and fabrication. Expect more & better wiki entries if or (rather) when I decide to buy some hardware. '''For the moment, don't believe anything you can read here'''. - [[User:Daniel K. Schneider|Daniel K. Schneider]] 19 April 2011.
In this short article, we shall introduce some basic principles. More technical information about computerized embroidery is available in other articles available indexed in the [[:category:computerized embroidery|computerized embroidery]] category.
'''Computerized [[embroidery machine]]s''' are specialized machines that can create embroidery from computerized designs. Such machines exist for the home market, for the small independent professional and for mass production. Many home sewing machines can be turned into an embroidery machine by adding a hardware module. [[Embroidery machine]]s can be found in [[fab lab]]s and other [[maker space]]s.  


[[image:aurora-450-embroidery-module.jpg|thumb|right|250px|Bernina Aurora 450 with embroidery module]]
'''[[Embroidery software|Embroidery design software]]''' exists in various form, either as special-purpose tools for various design stages or as complete design suites. Embroidery designs can be stored in a '''multitude of proprietary design formats''', that can be exported to '''proprietary machine formats''' (now often sold over the Internet). Free "open source" designs files are difficult to find. Converter software between various machine formats exists. Most design formats cannot be translated.
In computer-powered or computer-controlled home sewing machines, {{quotation|the computer directly controls several different motors, which precisely move the needle bar, the tensioning discs, the feed dog and other elements in the machine. [...] The computer drives the motors at just the right speed to move the needle bar up and down and from side to side in a particular stitch pattern. Typically, the computer programs for different stitches are stored in removable memory disks or cartridges. The sewing-machine computer may also hook up to a PC in order to download patterns directly from the Internet. Some electronic sewing machines also have the ability to create complex embroidery patterns. These machines have a motorized work area that holds the fabric in place underneath the needle assembly. They also have a series of sensors that tell the computer how all of the machine components are positioned. [...] The sewer simply loads a pattern from memory or creates an original one, and the computer does almost everything else.}} [http://home.howstuffworks.com/sewing-machine3.htm Computerized Sewing Machines], retrieved 13:07, 15 April 2011 (CEST). With that kind of machines, a user can focus on design and the needs to learn how to interpret orders from machine like replacing the threads.


According to Wikipedia and other sources, the first modern day computer controlled sewing machine was built by Orisol in 1987 for making shoes.
See also:
* [[Fab lab]], an introduction to end user-created design and fabrication (including a description of many other types of computer-controlled machinery)
* [[Computerized embroidery in education]]


== Computerized embroidery ==
== History ==


More or less according to [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_embroidery Wikipedia], the basic steps for creating an embroidery are as follows:
It can be argued that computer-controlled ''embroidery'' machines are older than computers. In the beginning of the 19th century, Jacquard invented looms controlled by a "chain of cards". However, embroidery machines controlled in real-time by a "puncher" through [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pantograph pantograph]s dominated the market in the 19th century and lasted until the 1970's we believe. Models made between the two WWs used [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punched_tape punched tapes] for control, i.e. software driven embroidery machines became important. In the 1980 the first computer-controlled machines for the home market appeared ([https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_embroidery#History Wikipedia], retrieved May 2018). [http://apisource.blogspot.com/2011/02/history-of-world-no-history-of.html Chitter Chatter Embroidery Machine History] and [https://community.annthegran.com/post/2011/06/03/computerized-embroidery-of-yesteryear-well-sort-of! Ann the Gran Embroidery History] include some interesting pictures.
* Get or create a digitized embroidery design file in some kind of editable source format. Typical formats are .exe, .dst, .cnd and .fdr
* Edit the design and/or combine with other designs (optional)
* Translate to machine executable code, i.e. a stitch file (optional if the original format machine-reable). Typical formats are .pes .art, .pes, .jef, .sew and .hus (see below)
* Load the final design file into the embroidery machine
* Stabilize the fabric and place it in the machine
* Start and monitor the embroidery machine


Creating a digitized embroidery file itself includes at least two steps
According to Wikipedia and other sources, the first modern day computer controlled ''sewing'' machine was built by Orisol in 1987 for making shoes, i.e. much later than embroidery machines.
* Create a drawing in a format that will remain editable. Some software also allows to import bitmap formats.
* Then digitize (translate) to a common stitching source format (optional) and add embroidery-specific information (e.g. color, stitches, fills, borders).
* Then digitize to a simple machine format (''punching'').


Specialized low-end software does this in two steps. Get a drawing or picture and then auto-digitize and auto-punch for a specific range of machines. In the middle of the process, you then also can resize, combine, rotate, etc.
== Stitching and design steps ==


== Consumer hardware ==
More or less according to [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_embroidery Wikipedia], the basic steps for creating an embroidery are as follows:
 
* [Optional] Get or create a digitized embroidery design file in some kind of editable format. Typical formats are .emb, .exe, .dst, .cnd and .fdr. Each software manufacturer has its own proprietary format.
We only will discuss machines that can do embroidery here for the moment.  
* [Optional] Combine it with other designs, e.g. add some custom lettering (optional)
 
* Translate the design to machine executable code (or get a file that is executable). Typical formats are .art, .pes, .jef, .sew and .hus (see below)
; Criteria for selecting an embroidery machine
* Load this "stitch" file into the embroidery machine
* Overall '''mechanical quality'''
* Stabilize and hoop the fabric and attach the hoop to the machine
* We believe that biger hoops (frames for the embroidery area) are critical. '''14x20 cm''' would be quite good for a mid-level machine. Many folks consider this as a must-have minimum. So-called Jumbo hoops (e.g. 40x26cm) exist on high end sewing/embroidery machines and multi-needle models. There also exist a third-party market for hoops.
* Start and monitor the embroidery machine, i.e. change the thread if needed.
* Tiny hoop (free arm hoop) for embroidering on tight places
* '''Stitches / minute''' (SPM). Should be at least 500. Typical range is between 400 and 1000.
* Built-in '''fonts''', patterns and '''designs''' may make a difference to people who prefer designing on the machine (as opposed to using a software).
* '''Needle threader''' (puts the thread into the needle)
* '''Thread cutter'''
* Support for ''standard'' USB keys and direct PC link
* '''User interface quality and functionalities''' (should allow for simple editing like rotation, resizing, time/stitch counting, design tracing, etc.).
* Free (or cheap) '''software'''
* Slide speed control
* Automatic '''detection of fabric''' and thread tension regulation
* '''Sensors''' that will tell you if something went wrong (e.g. broken thread)
* ...
 
=== Kinds of machines ===
 
As of April 2011. Information below can change rapidly and we may not update !
 
With respect to sewing and embroidery functionality we could distinguish two kinds of machines:
* Sewing machines only
* Sewing machines with an embroidery module or combined sewing/embroidery machines
* Single-needle embroidery machines (only)
* Multi-needle embroidery machines
 
; Entry and mid-level pure embroidery machines
 
[[image:janome-MC350.jpg|thumb|right|250px|Janome MC350 embroidery machine]]
There are not many entry level embroidery-only machines They work fine, but you have to change '''threads a lot''' and finishing (e.g. removing jump stitches) is more work. Also, precision will not be the same.
 
A typical example (as of spring 2011) of a '''lower mid-level embroidery'''-only machine is the Brother ''Innov-is NV 750E''. It costs about CHF 1500 or € 1100 (only about $800 in the US) and has a 18x13cm embroidery area (hoop). At the time of writing this model may probably offer the best ''feature for money'' ratio. I have no idea if stitching quality is good enough.  
 
Another popular example is the ''Elna 8300'' and it comes with a standard 12.6x11cm hoop and a larger hoop of 20x14 cm. This Elna is the same model as the ''Janome MC 350 E'' and costs between € 1400 and 1600, i.e. about US $2000 / CHF 2300 (in a shop).  
 
There are also cheaper models, however you may not find these in some countries. Low-end machines are often not sold in sewing shops, but in supermarkets and other mass let-outs. Good models seem to be the ''Brother Innov-is 90E'' (about € 600), the ''Brother PE-770'' (at $670 on sale) or the ''Janome MC200E'' ($900). Even cheaper would be a ''Brother SE400'' sewing/embroidery machine ($400).
 
[[image:brother-quattro-6000.jpg|thumb|right|250px|High-end Brother Quattro 6000 / Innovis I]]
 
Most '''higher mid-level''' machines are also sewing machine (see next item).
 
; Lower and higher Mid-level sewing/embroidery machines
 
The choice for mid-level combi machines is '''enormous''' and there are differences in features and ''large'' differences in prices. I wonder, if the difference in price is not necessarily in the mechanics but mostly in the built-in LCD panel and software, which someone like me would not necessarily need since I'd rather do everything on a computer.
 
For example, a Brother sewing/embroidery ''Innov-is 1500'' with a 26x16cm hoop and a large LCD costs about 2.499,00 €. The ''Bernina Aurora 450'' sewing machine plus embroidery module costs about CHF 3500. The (oval) hoop size is 25.5x14.5cm and the model has a smaller LCD, but probably better mechanics. A ''Husquarna Topaz 20'' includes a large hoop of 36x20cm and costs about € 1800 and the Topaz 30 is about € 2200.
 
A higher mid-level machine would have a larger color screen, more stitches, more built-in software (both functionalities and designs). E.g. a Brother Innov-is 4000 or a Bernina Artista 640 with embroidery module would cost about CHF 6000.
 
; High end sewing / embroidery machines
 
A high end-end sewing/embroidery machine like the Bernina 830 or the Brother Quattro (same as Innovis I in Europe?) are in the CHF 8-10000 price range, e.g. similar as entry-level multi-needle embroidery machines. Some brand's high-end machines are a bit cheaper. e.g. the Elna 9600 "Haute Couture" and the practically identical Janome 11000 are about € 5000.
 
These machines feature a very large screen and advanced on-screen editing. Mechanics also should be better. However, the problem that one has to change threads remains. These are probably dream machines for combined sewing/embroidery, but not necessarily for just embroidery.
 
[[image:melco-amaya-lite.jpg|thumb|right|250px|Melco Amaya Lite industrial embroidery machine]]
; (Expensive) entry level embroidery machines
 
A true entry-level embroidery machine (i.e. a device that has four to six needles) costs around 9-12 K CHF. Street prices seem to different a lot in different countries. E.g. the Brother PR-650 costs Euros 7700 on amazon.de / CHF 11'000 in a Swiss shop / $7500 in the US. A Babylock professional Plus is about $ 10000 in the USA. A Korean SWF/MA-6 is also about $11000.
 
An 4-needle Elna 9900 is about € 6500.- and a 4-needle Janome MB-4 about € 5500 to 6000 or US$ 7000. Probably both machines are the same.
 
You then could look at simple single head industrial machines. These are faster, have more needles and are of course more expensive. An entry level Tajima Neo II is about 14000$. A faster and (probably) more precise Swiss-owned and US-made Melco Amaya Lite is around CHF 12000 (?). The Amaya XTS is around CHF 17000 the older Melco Bravo costs CHF 11000 / US$ 9000. Prices for that type of machine seem to differ a lot from shop to shop and country.
 
Machines like the Melco Amaya can do 1500 Stitches/minute, stitch on most materials and don't have any built-in editing screen. Design is entirely done with a computer.
 
=== Consumer brands ===
 
I have no idea which types/brands are best, except that it is always better to buy from a shop nearby that also can repair a device. E.g. in Geneva I would not buy a Brother, since there is no authorized dealer. Please visit sewing / embroidery forums if you need advice from people who got experience. The following list includes most major brands (I believe) and some additional pointers.
 
; Baby Lock
: owned by [http://www.tacony.com/Strategic-Business-Units/sewing/ Tacony]
: [http://www.babylock.com/ babylock.com] (official website)
 
; Bernina
: independant Swiss company Bernina, swiss made
: Also owns the lower-end and cheaper not swiss-made Bernette brand
: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernina_Sewing_Machine Bernina Sewing Machine] (Wikipedia)
: [http://www.bernina.com Bernina.com] (official website)
: [http://www.mybernette.com/ mybernette.com] (official website of the Bernette line)
 
; Brother
: Japanese company
: has two lines, consumer and industrial
: [http://www.brother.com/ brother.com] (official global website) - [http://www.brother-usa.com/ brother USA] - [http://www.brothersewing.ch/ Brothersewing CH] ...
* Bother also develops for Baby Lock
 
; Elna
: Swiss company (some models made by Janome ?)
: [http://www.elna.com/ Official website]
: Sewing - sewing/embroidery - embroidery machines
 
; Husquarna Viking
: owned by SVP Worldwide
: [http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/ Husquarnaviking.com] (official website)
 
; Janome
: Japanese company, also seems to create models for various other brands
: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janome Janome] (Wikipedia)
: [http://www.janome.com/ Janome.com] (official website)


; Kenmore
Creating a digitized embroidery file itself includes at least two steps:
: owned by Janome
* (Optional) Create a drawing in an editable vector format. It is also possible to vectorize (traced) raster images, but this can be very time consuming.
* Digitize (translate, punch) the vector drawing to a (preferably) editable embroidery design format. A stitchable design includes embroidery-specific information like stitches and thread color. Good software rather defines "stitch objects", e.g. lines and fills (columns and areas) that are parameterized with stitching information such as the filling patterns, density, stitch density, pull compensation, stitch direction, etc..
* Export to machine-specific formats.


; Pfaff
== Typical paradigm ==
: owned by SVP Worldwide
: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pfaff Pfaff] (Wikipedia)
: [http://www.pfaff.com/ Pfaff.com] (main website)


; Singer
While some more modern machines perform actions like dropping a sequin to be sewn in place, most modern embroidery consists is entirely of the same looped interlock stitch that have been the mainstay of sewing machines since their inception. Computerized embroidery formats ultimately contain instructions for the embroidery machine to perform. Move to a new location in two different directions, move but block the needle-bar (jump), cut the thread, drop the needle, switch to the next thread. These are all the actions that a sewing machine can take, usually in increments of 1/10th a millimeter. The goal then within design software is often how to pattern these stitches in useful ways for the person using the software. These patterns result in a lot of the underlying concepts within embroidery software. Stitches like zig-zag, satin, flat fill, bean stitch, and others are simply straight stitches in particular patterns, and the methods used to generate these are not explicit to the media.
: owned by SVP Worldwide
: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Singer_Sewing Singer Corporation] (Wikipedia)
: [http://www.singer.com/ singer.com] (Official website)


; Toyota
Typically modern embroidery software uses vector shapes with fills applied to the objects. This allows the users for editing of the objects and thus the fills those objects create and adjustments to the density, direction, or any other property used to generate the resulting stitches. The advantages to this is that embroidery can be done quickly. A lot of stitches in recognizable patterns can be applied quickly with skilled users getting the results they expect. The software then stores the vector object and the fill properties to generate the underlying stitches. When the underlying stitches are edited by the user, regenerating the stitches would lose those modifications.  
: [http://www.home-sewing.com/ home-sewing.com] (official website)


Some brands are owned by the same company. For example [http://www.svpworldwide.com/ SVP] owns Singer, Husquarna and PFAFF and is the world's largest sewing machine company. Sometimes companies share development (for either the mechanical or electronic parts or both) or have an entire model made by another company. Difficult to know who exactly produces what...
While vectors are a key aspect of this paradigm, it's not the case that you could go from vector to embroidery without some additional information about the type of fill being applied to that object. While software could take a vector as the answer of where to fill, they don't answer the question of how to fill. There's also a considerable amount of things that are technically permitted of a series of short line-segments (and thus embroidery) but are not easily accomplished through the dominant paradigm.


== Software and repositories for embroidery ==
This seems to be the reason there are so many different formats, basically a different one for each type of embroidery. And different versions of formats add more such features to the software. If you wish to edit a design later, you need to have all the objects the file used to generate the stitches. Often software suites develop different methods for filling various objects or different features and these are unique to that particular brand. It's also the reason why, even when some formats have vector information (say PES files), these are not loaded by other software (eg. Wilcom Trusizer) in a manner that could be resized beyond about 10% without noticeable loss of coverage for the fill. Other software that can load a format, will often only load the actual stitches themselves (since that's what, all embroidery files must have to be sewn), which prevents any editing of the shapes used to generate them initially.


Disclaimer: None tested so far, therefore none we could recommend.
A ''straight stitch'' or ''running stitch'' is the typical name for a stitch that is generally not in the pattern of one of the other types of stitches. Technically all stitches are the same and they are all running stitches. They can't be anything else.
[[image:Simm_Stickerin.jpg|thumb|250px|right|Franz Xaver Simm: Die Stickerin Oil on canvas, 94 x 68 cm]]


We can distinguish between several types of software, although sometimes the frontiers are blurred.
Fill stitches, also called ''tatami stitch'' are montone fills of particularly defined areas. These tend to be a sort of flood fill done with stitches. Most modern embroidery software executes this by using vector objects which then have a fill applied to them.  
* Software to create designs for "manual" embroidery
* Vectorizers (can translate a bitmap to vector formats)
* Digitizers (can translate a vector format to CNC code). This is '''must have'''.
* Converters can convert from one format to another (may include the above)
* Editors (can draw, but sometimes also vectorize)
* Viewers (allow to view files, useful for script generated formats for example)
* Organizers (help to organize designs on your hard disk)
* Complete embroidery CAD Suites, can create sophisticated drawings (''vector based embroidery'', VBE) and support all the design stages. Often, the drawing module is based on existing high-end vector graphics software. E.g. Pulse's ''embroideryi2'' is an addon for either Illustrator or Corel Draw. Bernina's ''Embroidery software'' is based on Corel.
High-end embroidery software suites should include all of the software types listed above.


It is very difficult to find out what software costs and - funny - where and how to buy. Some companies (like Bernina) seem to sell anything only through authorized resellers. In addition, I couldn't find any up-to-date list that includes any sort of comparison. Add the various numerous obscure file formats and you find yourself in a software jungle that is hard to beat in terms of inaccessibility and obscurity.
Mathematically the objects being filled must be monotone or broken into different parts. Monotone geometric objects can be filled with an unbroken scanline starting from the top to the bottom without changing directions. Since some objects being filled will lack this property, the objects are converted into monotone objects by clipping off the non-monotone parts. These are then underpathed (a straight stitch to the other merge/split node occurring such that it will be covered) and filled, and merged with the current fill. There is a lot of differences in how this algorithm is implemented between different software suites.


One also has to pay attention to connectivity. Some machine types use specially formatted memory cards or USB sticks (or some other weird specifics) and do require special software to write CNC files. Usually this type of software is offered for free (either when you buy the machine or for download). The software then also can convert, resize, rotate, preview, etc. If you plan buying any sort of design software, you should check if your type/brand is supported. If not, you always can use a converter but this may be a lossy process.
Sometimes even monotone objects are broken in this manner to allow for a start and stop location to be predefined. If you are filling a circle from the top to bottom, but want to start from the left, the algorithm will need to underpath to the top, then fill to the bottom. If an exit location is needed, it will stop at the level of the exit-node, underpath to the bottom, then fill up to the exit position.


=== Design and multi-purpose tools ===
Satin stitches are so-called because they have a soft satiny look. They are geometrically sweep fills of sweepable objects. A sweepable object is one that can be completely filled by a sweepline that transverses the object and is permitted to change directions. By definition if an object is sweepable it is monotone, as it does not need to change directions. Satin stitches are usually done with areas small enough that a single stitch can fill the objects.


; Free just design tools
This covers most of the conceptual design aspects within embroidery software. Some popular tools like Wilcom B, generally work by creating the vector object and fill direction and fill information at the same time. Which is a step away from the paradigm of ''vector + fill -> embroidery''.
(these will just create patterns for hand stitching)


* [http://sourceforge.net/projects/kxstitch/ KXStitch] aims to produce software to allow the creation and editing of cross stitch patterns. Runs under Linux/KDE. See [http://sourceforge.net/apps/mediawiki/kxstitch/ kxstitch wiki]
Read [[embroidery stitch type]] for a short presentation of various options available in embroidery software.


; Free design tools for computerized embroidery
== Moving on ==
These can output CNC file formats. You may have to use a converter to get it working on your machine.


* [http://embroidermodder.sourceforge.net/ Embroidermodder]. Free software tool (under development as of April 2011) that allows the user to add custom modifications to their embroidery designs. Can read/write 5-6 formats. Started in 2004 by Mark Pontius, last update on 11/2010 when last checked (April 2011). I installed this on Win 7 64 and the program runs. I created a simple text and was able to save a .dst file and then open it with Wilcom TrueSizer. Some stitches seem to be wrong.
The [[concepts of computerized embroidery]] article will introduce some important practical concepts of machine embroidery. [[Embroidery stitch type]]s are discussed in a separate piece. [[Hooping and stabilizing in computerized embroidery]] explain how to ready a fabric for embroidery.


* [http://www.achatina.de/sewing/INDEX.HTM Rudolf's Sewing / Embroidery related Programs] (last updated 2005, not tested). Includes a free conversion program and a simple drawing program creating *.pcs.  
[[Embroidery software]] tries to provide an overview of various embroidery software. [[Stitch Era tutorials]] is the starting point of a vector-drawing centric series of tutorials of a powerful and relatively cheap complete embroidery software. [[InkStitch]] is the start page of a tutorial series for an open-source platform based on [[Inkscape]], '''the''' open source drawing program.


; Commercial embroidery/stitching design tools
For technical people, software developers in particular, [[Embroidery format]] assembles everything that is known about propriety machine embroidery formats.
 
* [http://www.buzztools.com/ BuzzTools] sells a series of design tools, e.g. design management software. graphics to stitches, words to stitches, etc. (between $99 and 300)
 
* Brother, also a maker of sewing machines sells [PED Basic Embroidery Software] (simple editing) and  [http://www.brother-usa.com/Homesewing/Software/SoftwarePEDDesignLite.aspx PE-Design light] (digitizing, letters, combining, etc. about 300 €). A higher-end product also exists (see below)
 
* [http://www.stitch-sew.com/index.php?en Stitch & Sew] made by Compucon has several product levels: Designer (Standard Digitizing & Editing package), Editor (Lettering & Editing package), Embroidery Studio (digitizing & editing).  The full package is called ''Embroidery Studio Plus''. No idea how much it would cost.
 
* [http://www.stitchesinmotion.ca/ Stitches in Motion] has Sew Art (software for converting clip-art or other forms of raster and vector images into an embroidery file). It can output in PES or JEF. For other formats, you will have to use a conversion program.
 
* [http://embird.com/ Embird Embroidery Software] sells several programs, A base program (Basic Embird) plus several plugins e.g. Embird Studio (digitizing). Can read/write many formats and supports many machine types. The top-end program, [http://embird.com/sw/embird/estudio.htm Studio] (digitizing, lettering, auto-tracing, freehand, conversion of vector files into embroidery) is $150 and is a plugin for the [http://embird.com/sw/embird/features.htm Basic Embird Embroidery Software] (basic editing, sizing, stitch editing, etc.). $144 Free demo available. I.e. for $300 one probably gets a good package and '''it can be tried out before buying'''. The web site has real information (as opposed to fancy PDF files). Seems to be fairly popular and seems to offer a good price/performance ratio.
 
* [http://www.thredworks.com/index.php Threadworks] is a digitizing program for embroidery machines. Can work together with Embird (see above)
 
* [http://www.amazingdesigns.com/en/products/embroidery-software/ Embroidery Software] from Amazing Designs. Several small software (all for under $200), in particular a digitizer and an editor (of existing designs). Trial versions available.
 
* [https://www.aps-ethos.com/embroidery_software.php ApS-Ethos] has several programs. The top-end [https://www.aps-ethos.com/virtuoso_embroidery_software.php Virtuoso Plus] can edit, letter, digitize, import vector files, etc.
 
* [http://www.creativeseries.com/cs2_products.asp Fancyworks] has a series of products. The top-end [http://www.creativeseries.com/cs2_fancyworksstudioplus.asp Fancyworks Studio Plus] (editing, digitizing, lettering, import, etc.) costs $650.
 
* [http://www.designersgallerysoftware.com/products/editing/ Designers Gallery] seems to sell the same under a different packaging (not sure about this.)
 
* [http://www.artisticsewingsuite.com/embroidery-design-software.html Artistic Suing Suite]. Related to Janome ?
 
* [http://www.artnstitch.com/index.html Art and Stitch] Standalone digitizing software for longarm quilters and machine embroiderers. Includes drawing, filling, importing vector graphics, punching. $ 870
 
=== High end commercial design suites for home users ===
[[image:brother-pr650.png|thumb|250px|right|Brother PR-650 (semi-professional embroidery machine)]]
 
It is difficult to find out who really makes what, how much it costs and what is meant for "prosumers" (advanced home users) as opposed to professionals. I find it interesting that two products are based on [http://www.corel.com/ Corel Draw] and I wonder if there is some common ground. Again, I am quite amazed at how difficult it is to find any information about prices and comparative functionality. Also some of these guys can't make websites. Very easy to become lost, very difficult to find the software pages, too many PDF downloads...
 
Most sewing/embroidery machine makers sell their own custom software suite. Most of these also work with other brands, i.e. they can digitize into more than one format and (maybe) write to several types of cards or otherwise communicate with a machine. It is difficult to understand what most products can do, except for products based on Corel/Illustrator where at least you can know what you could draw in terms of vector graphics.
 
; General purpose for the consumer market
 
* [http://www.corel.com/servlet/Satellite/us/en/Product/1207851980808 Wilcom DecoStudio] {{quotation|integrates CorelDRAW® Graphics Suite X4 with Wilcom's renowned stitch processor, lettering, monogramming and appliqué tools to create a complete graphics and embroidery software solution}}. This product was formerly called ''Edit/Plus''. See also [http://www.wilcomdiscovery.com/Products/DecoStudioe2/DecoStudioFeatures/tabid/153/Default.aspx DecStudio] at Wilcom. Wilcom also has a product line called [http://www.wilcomdiscovery.com/Products/DecoStudioe2/ProductLevels/tabid/150/Default.aspx Embroidery Studio] with several product levels. These are more sophisticated and more expensive (probably over € 10000).
 
* [http://www.pulsemicro.com/pulse-products.htm Embroidery software] by Pulse. Pulse creates various products like Tajima DG/ML, Tajima Librarian, Tajima Passport. High end and ''really'' expensive. For the home user there is Embroideryi2 for Illustrator or embroidery i2 for Corel. See for example [http://www.embroideryi2.com/ Embroidery i2] (both for Corel and Illustrator) These are rumored to cost just a few thousand $.
 
; (Rather) brand specific
 
* Bernina's [http://berninausa.com/product_detail-n6-i293-sUS.html Embroidery Software] (en)  based on Corel Draw is about $2000/€ 1500. The ''current embroidery software version 6'' probably was developed togehter with Wilcom and should be quite similar as Deco Studio. Bernina sells other products:  [http://www.berninausa.com/product_overview-n6-sUS.html Software link] (en/USA). See also the [http://www.bernina.ch/product_overview-n6-sDE.html Swiss version] of the software page (de/fr).
 
* Brother PE-Design NEXT (about € 1500).
 
* [http://www.melco-stickmaschine.com/ Melco] (D) has a line of products known under "Design Shop". See [http://www.melcousa.com/embroidery-software Melco USA]: Lite, normal, Pro and Pro+. Melco produces embroidery machines and [http://www.shopmelco.com/category_s/59.htm software prices] are not directly communicated ....
 
* [http://janome.com/ Janome], a sewing machine maker has line of products known as [http://janomespecials.com/digitizer/ Janome Digitizer Software Series] with three software levels Jr, Pro and MB. There is no price list. Digitizer MB is about € 1000.
 
* [http://www.5dembroiderysystem.com/Packages.htm 5D Embroidery Software Packages]. This company sells two kinds of high-end packages, one for Husquarna and one for Pfaff. Individual modules can be bought directly from 5D. No price list.
** Husquarna's packaging of the [http://www.hv.5dembroiderysystem.com/ 5D suite] for its Viking line, includes [http://www.hv.5dembroiderysystem.com/Professional.htm 5D™ Professional]. This product includes eleven software modules, e.g. design creator (edit/fill/etc), editor, aligner, sketcher, cross stitcher, organizer. Eight of these can be bought separately. Did not see real technical information (i.e. power of the design tools).
** Pfaff's [http://www.pfaff.5dembroiderysystem.com/ 5D™ embroidery software] version.
 
* Elna has [http://www.elna.com/en-gw/softwares.php?software=210 Digitizer EX V 3.0]. This product looks more like mid-end software. Price is about € 1000. Probably the same as Janomes MB embroidery software package, since Janome builds the Elna 8300 embroidery machine.
 
; Other
 
* [http://www.embroideryoffice.com/ Embroidery Office] (EO11) made by Sierra includes: Art and Design; Design Administration; Production Organization; Machine Connectivity; Catalog Preparation and Spreading. Claims to be very high-end, but their web pages are full or errors and won't display well in FF4 and IE9 ... (on April 19, 2011).
 
* [http://www.i-cliqq.de/ I-CLIQQ] € 1900, is a suite with three levels that is marketed for professionals. Claims to in the same ligue as the multi-thousand competition. (Demo version available).
 
* [http://www.florianisoftware.com/ Floriani] has a larger product line. [http://www.florianisoftware.com/products/*/*/6880 Embroidery Suite Pro] costs € 1600 and includes 8 products, e.g. editing, digitizing, borders, monograms, lettering, resizing. These also can be bought individually. The top-of the line product is € 5000.
 
* [http://www.mcstitch.de/ McStich] Professional software, fairly useless web site....
 
=== Free converter tools and other utilities ===
 
[[image:wilcom-truesizer.png|thumb|right|250px|Screenshot of Wilcom TrueSizer V2.x]]
; Free utility tools (converters, digitizers, etc.)
Some of these are available as plugins for graphics programs
 
* [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/hershey Hershey Text: An Inkscape extension for engraving fonts]. This is not directly useful, but this extension could be used as "middleware" for an Inkscape to embroidery converter (see below)
 
* ''Planned since 2009'': The [http://www.k2g2.org/wiki:blf Brother Liberation Front] announced working on and Inkscape and Gimp plugin named Yarnscape and Crafty Gimp respectively. If this will happen, then Inkscape could become a free embroidery design tool.
 
* [http://www.jonh.net/~jonh/inkscape-embroidery/ Embroidery output extension for Inkscape] by Jon Howell, 2010. GPL. Easy to install on Linux, needs python and the shapely library. Tested on April 2011 under Ubuntu 10.04. To install:
apt-get install python-shapely
cp embroider.inx embroider.py PyEmb.py ~/.config/inkscape/extensions
: In Inkscape, the extension is available in Extensions->Render->Embroider
: Only works, if you create a drawing with ''filled regions'' that are converted to ''pathes'' and are ''not grouped''. (So no grouping, no strokes, etc. !)
: Result *.exp will sit in your home directory or some other place ...
I managed to create a stitched oval and display it with some *.exp viewer. - April 2011.
 
* [http://www.joachim-riedel.de/freeware/ Joachims's freeware] include Pesview 1.3.0, a Viewer/Conversion-Tool for PES/PEC/PCS/DST/SEW and EasyPEC for converting PES.x to PEC 1.0
 
* [http://git.kernel.org/?p=linux/kernel/git/torvalds/pesconvert.git;a=summary PES-file thumbnailer] by Linus Thorvald himself ! (for Linux, needs pnglib-devel and cairo-devel to comple) Read [http://torvalds-family.blogspot.com/2010/01/embroidery-gaah.html Embroidery.. gaah] January 13, 2010
 
* [http://www.njcrawford.com/programs/embroidery-reader/ Embroidery Reader] for PES (Brother)
 
; Free converters/resizers/etc from commercial companies
 
[[image:bernina-artlink.png|thumb|right|250px|Screen shot of Bernina Artlink 6 (Unconvincing model made with Embroidermodder)]]
* [http://www.wilcom.com.au/PRODUCTS/TrueSizer.aspx WILCOM TrueSizer]. Read, resize, rotate and convert many popular industrial and home expanded/condensed file formats. Can't write .ART. Windows, free but registration is required. Tested under Windows 7 64 bit. Software works, but so far I don't have a sewing machine to test for real (April 2011). Anyhow, as far as I can tell, this seems to be the '''one of the two best free converters'''.
 
* [http://www.stitch-sew.com/index.php?id=24,29,0,0,1,0  multi-converter] from [http://www.stitch-sew.com/ Stitch & Sew]. Can read designs from manufacturer's cards to the hard disk and the other way round. Registration required. I Installed it on Win 7/64, but did not understand how I could convert files within my hard disk.
 
* [http://www.bernina.com/Artlink6 Bernina Artlink], a free multi-purpose utility program form Bernina. Can resize, rotate 45 degrees, select stitch color, read/write many embroidery formats, display hoops for various types (also other brands), write to various hardware.  As far as I can tell, this seems to be the '''one of the two best free converters'''. I somehow got the German version, but there is also an English edition ...
 
* [http://www.artisticsewingsuite.com/software-embroidery-applique-cutwork.html Artistic my editor] free viewing and editing software: view and modify supported embroidery files and then re-save them in any of the available embroidery file formats. (not yet tested).
 
=== Commercial converters, resizers, etc. ===
(See also other tools above !)
 
* [http://www.stitchesinmotion.ca/sewwhat.asp SewWhat!] from Stitches in Motion. Can read most formats and write a lot of formats (but not .art). Between $50 and $65. Free trial versions.
 
* [http://www.stitchbuddy.de/features/ StichBuddy] converter, resizer, etc. For Mac OS X. Cheap (€ 40) and demo version is available.
 
* [http://embrilliance.com/embrilliance-essentials Embrilliance]. A (relatively) cheap multi-purpose tool for converting/merging/lettering etc. Supports most embroidery formats, but can't import "normal" 2D graphics. (Mac/PC)
 
* [http://www.macemb.com/ Mac Embroidery]. Multipurpose converter ($ 129).
 
=== File formats ===
 
There are several kinds of formats, in particular
* All sorts of 2D bitmap and vector formats for the drawings
* Embroidery and sewing specific file formats that work on a range of machines and also can be used as exchange formats.
* Machine formats that are mostly brand or even type specific
 
; List of formats
'''Not''' sure that it is correct. It seems that there are about 30 different formats. For me, it is not very clear what different formats can do. Also, I don't know ''how'' formats are supported by various vendors. If I understand right, some formats are barely editable since they only contain stitching instructions like "go x/y" and "add a stitch from x/y to x2/y2" or "change thread".
 
I is not very clear what formats a specific machine from various Brands can read. E.g. Bernina's support *.art (a low level CNC format), but it seems that the high-end machines directly can read *.exp which is an editable format, if I understood right.
 
To make the situation worse, some formats have different subtypes. E.g. the popular .PES comes in ''eight'' different versions :( - I once thought that the situation was really bad for video codecs, video containers or 3D vector formats, but embroidery beats anything else I am aware of in terms of obscurity and diversity.
 
Vendors include conversion software that can translate to their (and other's) machine readable CNC formats from a series of other low-level and also from more high-level formats.
 
; Some more high level formats (easily editable ?)
 
* CND Melco
* DST Tajima
* EMB Wilcom
* EXP Melco, Bernina (high-end models)
* FDR Barudan
 
The most popular formats seem to be DST and EXP
 
; Some low level CNC formats (lossy for editing ?)
 
* ART Bernina
* CSD Singer, POEM
* HUS Husquarna Viking
* JEF Janome, Elna
* PCS Pfaff
* PEC Bernina ?
* PES Brother (Bernina?, Bablock, Deco)
* SEW Janome, Elna, Kenmore
* SHV Husquarna Viking
* XXX Singer, Compucon
* VIP Pfaff (older), Husquarna
* VP3 Pfaff (newer)
* 9mm Pfaff
* PCQ,PCD,PCM ?
 
The most popular low-level format seems to be *.pes (Brother)
 
See also:
* [http://www.puncher.com/format.htm Embroidery Formats] (at Puncher)
* [http://www.ggcreations.com.au/althea/formats.html Embroidery File Formats supported in Embird]
* [http://www.embroideryarts.com/resource/files/faq/formats_supported.php Formats Supported]
* [http://blog.stickmuster-shop.de/2009/12/welche-maschine-benotigt-welches-format/ Welche Maschine benötigt welches Format?] (2009).
 
=== Free repositories ===
 
* [http://www.needlework.ru/indeng.htm Needlework Russia] (some free)
* [http://www.annthegran.com/ AnnTheGran] (some free)
* [http://www.thingiverse.com/tool:41 The 'Automatic Embroidery Machine' System] Thingiverse. As of 4/2011 only 3 things .... but that will change ;)


== Links ==
== Links ==


=== General ===
=== General links ===


; Sewing and embroidery websites (unsorted)
; Sewing and embroidery websites (unsorted)


* [http://www.k2g2.org/ k2g2] {{quotation|is an open platform that is spearheading the brains and crafts movement of the 21st century, taking a hacker's perspective on everything from handicraft to crafting machines}}. This website includes good "portals" for [http://www.k2g2.org/portal:machine_knitting machine knitting] and [http://www.k2g2.org/portal:machine_embroidery machine embroidery]. '''Best''' resource for open source projects.
* [http://www.k2g2.org/ k2g2] {{quotation|is an open platform that is spearheading the brains and crafts movement of the 21st century, taking a hacker's perspective on everything from handicraft to crafting machines}}. This website includes good "portals" for [http://www.k2g2.org/portal:machine_knitting machine knitting] and [http://www.k2g2.org/portal:machine_embroidery machine embroidery]. '''Best''' resource for open source projects, but doesn't show much activity over the years.
* [http://wiki.embroiderymachine.com/index.php/Main_Page Embroidery Machine Encyclopedia] (Wiki, 148 articles as of May 2017). As of Jan 2018, the site is full of spam (>20'000 pages) but still includes the useful information.
* [http://www.sewing.org/ Sewing.org] has free sew, quilt and craft projects
* [http://www.sewing.org/ Sewing.org] has free sew, quilt and craft projects
* [http://www.gotsewing.com/ Sewing & Craft Alliance] provides educational information and creative resources to the sewing and crafting enthusiast
* [http://www.gotsewing.com/ Sewing & Craft Alliance] provides educational information and creative resources to the sewing and crafting enthusiast
Line 373: Line 102:
* [http://www.tumblr.com/ rumblr] includes a few entries about sewing etc.
* [http://www.tumblr.com/ rumblr] includes a few entries about sewing etc.
* [http://www.egausa.org/ The Embroiderers' Guild of America] (EGA). A few interesting links.
* [http://www.egausa.org/ The Embroiderers' Guild of America] (EGA). A few interesting links.
* [http://www.open-source-embroidery.org.uk/ Open Source embroidery]
* [http://sewing.patternreview.com/ patternreview] Popular site for sharing patterns and advise (including computerized stuff)
* [http://sewing.patternreview.com/ patternreview] Popular site for sharing patterns and advise (including computerized stuff)
* [http://embroidery.embroiderersguild.com/ Embroidery]. Nice traditional embroidery website for junior stitchters, textile students and teachers.


; In other languages
; In other languages
* [http://forum.broderiemachine.fr/ Forum Broderie Machine]
* [http://forum.broderiemachine.fr/ Forum Broderie Machine]
* [http://blog.stickmuster-shop.de/ Stickmaschinen-Blog] (good tips)


; Blogs
; Blogs
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(Retrieved April 2011, unless otherwise stated)
(Retrieved April 2011, unless otherwise stated)


; Introductions to embroidery
; Introductions to traditional embroidery
(there are many, but we keep it down since we are interested in computer-created designs only here)
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroidery Embroidery] (Wikipedia). Follow-up the various Wikipedia links at the bottom.
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroidery Embroidery] (Wikipedia). follow-up the various Wikipedia links at the bottom.


; Introductions to computerized embroidery
; Introductions to computerized embroidery


* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_embroidery Machine embroidery] (Wikipedia)
* MIT [http://hlt.media.mit.edu/wiki/ High-low tech] wiki has a series:
** [http://hlt.media.mit.edu/wiki/pmwiki.php?n=Main.EmbroideryMachine Embroidery Machine Tutorial Part 1: Software]
** [http://hlt.media.mit.edu/wiki/pmwiki.php?n=Main.EmbroideryMachine2 Embroidery Machine Tutorial Part 2: The Machine] (Bernina Artista 630 tutorial)
 
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_embroidery Machine embroidery] (Wikipedia). Not a particularly good article as of Jan 2018.
* [http://www.ehow.com/how_5129778_digitize-embroidery-designs.html How to Digitize Embroidery Designs] at eHow
* [http://www.ehow.com/how_5129778_digitize-embroidery-designs.html How to Digitize Embroidery Designs] at eHow
* [http://www.ehow.com/how_5876025_create-digital-embroidery-design.html How to Create a Digital Embroidery Design] at eHow


; Introductions computerized sewing machine
; Introductions to computerized sewing machine
* [http://home.howstuffworks.com/sewing-machine3.htm Computerized Sewing Machines], at How stuff works (part 3 of [http://home.howstuffworks.com/sewing-machine1.htm How Sewing Machines Work])
* [http://home.howstuffworks.com/sewing-machine3.htm Computerized Sewing Machines], at How stuff works (part 3 of [http://home.howstuffworks.com/sewing-machine1.htm How Sewing Machines Work])


Line 408: Line 140:


; Specialized tutorials
; Specialized tutorials
* [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/electroknit/ Electro-knit!] Hacking the Brother KH-930e knitting machine by Ladyada, March 2011. See also [http://www.antitronics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Electroknit_Technical_Information Electroknit Technical Information] by Sconklin. (Dec 2010).
* [https://learn.adafruit.com/electroknit Hacking the Brother KH-930 Knitting Machine]


; Other
=== Software links ===
"* [http://scripts.mit.edu/~emu/fab/?p=1159 computer controlled embroidery?]. Discussion about fab labs and tools of culture (fab/MIT)
(see our own links in the [[embroidery software]] article)
 
=== Software ===


; Useful websites
; Useful websites
* [http://www.k2g2.org/portal:machine_embroidery Machine Embroidery Portal] at k2g2. It includes pointers to the most of the few open source software and:
* [http://www.k2g2.org/portal:machine_embroidery Machine Embroidery Portal] at k2g2. Used to be a good resource, but not updated since 2014 (as of Jan 2018).
** [http://www.k2g2.org/links:industrial_embroidery_software List of Industrial Embroidery Software] ('''Best''' list I found)
** [http://www.k2g2.org/links:commercial_embroidery_software Links to commercial embroidery software],
** [http://www.k2g2.org/links:industrial_embroidery_software Links to industrial embroidery software]
* [http://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/48008 embroidery software which runs natively under Mac OS X] (2/2010)
* [http://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/48008 embroidery software which runs natively under Mac OS X] (2/2010)


; Online retailers (multiple products)
; Comparisons
* [http://www.embroidery.com/ embroidery.com]
 
* Amazon sells various embroidery software.
The best table we found is Wikipedia's [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_embroidery_software Comparison of embroidery software]. However, it does not really choosing a good software.
 
A (good) 2013 comparison of software by Floriani (a software producer) is kept in the [https://web.archive.org/web/20131105225712/http://www.florianisoftware.com/newsletter/V51_DigitzingSoftware.pdf wayback machine]


; File formats
; File formats
* [http://www.achatina.de/sewing/main/TECHNICL.HTM Technical info about formats]
* [http://www.achatina.de/sewing/main/TECHNICL.HTM Technical info about formats]
* [http://embroidermodder.sourceforge.net/ Embroidermodder] has links to other pages
* [http://embroidermodder.sourceforge.net/ Embroidermodder] has links to other pages
* [http://www.wotsit.org/ Wotsit.org] includes a description and a link for most somewhat popular computer file formats. (you will have to search for stitching/sewing formats).
* [http://www.needlework.ru/page/embroidery.html Need other embroidery format?] at needlework.ru


=== Hardware ===
=== Hardware links ===


* [http://products.howstuffworks.com/computerized-sewing-machine-reviews.htm Computerized Sewing Machines Reviews and Prices] at products/how stuff works.
* [https://www.fabathome.org/best-embroidery-machine/ The 11 Best Embroidery Machines of 2018] (FabatHome. Notice: there is only one small multi-needle machine, one can not call a single needle machine "professional".)
* [http://www.bestsewingmachinesonline.com/ The Best Sewing Machine Online]. Explains some history, how they work and discusses various models (include some that are computer-powered or controlled).
* [http://bestsewingmachine.net/ Best Sewing Machine]. Lots of reviews (> 600 models)


; In other languages
; In other languages
Line 443: Line 170:
; Do it yourself
; Do it yourself
* [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/08/creating-a-computer-controlled-sewi.html Creating a computer-controlled sewing machine] and [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/07/cnc-sewing-machine.html CNC sewing machine], Makezine, 2010.
* [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/08/creating-a-computer-controlled-sewi.html Creating a computer-controlled sewing machine] and [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/07/cnc-sewing-machine.html CNC sewing machine], Makezine, 2010.
=== Free design repositories ===
There don't seem to be many truly free and easy to use websites. Most commercial web sites offer some free designs. In addition, some of the free open source or close source software packages include free designs (see above).
* [http://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingiverse]. Search for em broidery. As of 1/2018 only a few designs....
* You could search for [http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=embroidery%20patterns&w=all embroidery patterns on Flickr]. Some are free (but you then need to digitize these or find another version)
=== Fablab work, open source, etc. ===
* [http://www.inkscapeforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=4776&sid=040a487ccaf7b0b1456f987e2af2d4e6 svg to/from embroidery converter] (for now just a discussion at Inkscape Forums)
* ....
(more needed)


== Bibliography and journals ==
== Bibliography and journals ==
; Introductory books for machine embroidery
* John Deer (2007). Digitizing Made Easy: Create Custom Embroidery Designs Like a Pro, Krause Publications. ISBN 0896894924 (Good introductory book to digitizing, a cheaper and simpler alternative to Nielsen)
*  Jones, Deborah. (2009). ''Machine Embroidery on Difficult Materials'' (Book & CD Rom), Krause Publications, ISBN 0896896544. (Explains how to embroider on silk, leather, lace, etc.)
* Nielsen, Bonnie (2010). ''Punch  - Digitizing for Embroidery Design'', Verlagshaus Gruber. Directly order from the editor (cheaper price at 53€): https://shop.verlagshaus-gruber.de/int_de/featured/punch-digitizing-for-embroidery-design.html ('''Best overall book.''' There is also a German edition: Punchen – Kreatives Erstellen von Stickdesigns ISBN: 978-3-00-044615-3)
* Twigg, Jeanine (2001). Embroidery Machine Essentials: How to Stabilize, Hoop and Stitch Decorative Designs,  Krause Publications, ISBN 9780873419994 (Useful for absolute beginners. There are several companion books from the same author).
; Other introductory books for machine embroidery
(I don't have any of these, and therefore can't recommend any - DKS June 2011)
* C&T Publishing (2004), ''All About Machine Arts'', ISBN 9781571202277.
* Betty Barnden (Author) (2003). ''The Embroidery Stitch Bible'', Krause Publications, ISBN 9780873495103.
* Deb Menz (2004). ''Color Works'', Interweave Press, ISBN 1931499470 (This book address color for crafters).
* Linda Turner Griepentrog, Rebecca Kemp Brent (2006). ''Machine Embroidery Wild & Wacky'', Krause Publications.
* Linda Miller (2010). ''Creative Machine Embroidery'', A&C Black. ISBN 1408103982.
* Van Holmes (2008). ''Encyclopedia of Machine Embroidery'', Anova Batsford, ISBN 9781906388188.
; Academic Journals (may contain articles about embroidery)


* [http://trj.sagepub.com/ Textile Research Journal], Sage.
* [http://trj.sagepub.com/ Textile Research Journal], Sage.
* [http://www.scirp.org/journal/ADR/ Art and Design Review], Scientific Publisher, Open Access.
; Research
* He, T., Isenberg, P., & Isenberg, T. (2023). Data Embroidery with Black-and-White Textures. arXiv preprint arXiv:2309.02864. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/373714923_Data_Embroidery_with_Black-and-White_Textures/fulltext/64f93dc205a98c1b63f7d6ba/Data-Embroidery-with-Black-and-White-Textures.pdf
* Irene Posch and Ebru Kurbak. 2016. CRAFTED LOGIC Towards Hand-Crafting a Computer. In Proceedings of the 2016 CHI Conference Extended Abstracts on Human Factors in Computing Systems (CHI EA ’16). ACM, New York, NY, USA, 3881-3884. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1145/2851581.2891101
* Sofronova, D., & Sofronov, Y. (2020). Evaluation of stitch length accuracy of embroidery machine by different speed and step. In E3S Web of Conferences (Vol. 207, p. 03004). EDP Sciences. https://www.e3s-conferences.org/articles/e3sconf/pdf/2020/67/e3sconf_fpepm2020_03004.pdf
; Trade journals
* [https://graphics-pro.com/ Graphics Pro], includes articles about embroidery (some education)
* [https://www.impressionsmagazine.com/ Impressions], information for apparel (screen printing, embroidery, heat-applied graphics and digital decorating).
* [http://www.stitchprint.eu/ Stitch and Print]
* [http://www.embroiderersguild.com/stitch/ Stitch], hand stitching (from the [https://embroiderersguild.com/ embroiders' guild])
* [https://www.stickstoff-magazin.de/ Stickstoff Magazin] (in German, pay)


[[Category: hardware]]
[[Category: hardware]]
[[Category: Design methodologies]]
[[Category: Computerized embroidery]]
[[Category: Fab lab]]
[[fr:Broderie machine]]

Latest revision as of 18:47, 11 June 2024

Machine embroidery
Module - entry page
Computerized embroidery
to improve
2024/06/11
See also


Introduction

Computerized embroidery, also called Computer-controlled embroidery or simply machine embroidery is a kind of Computer-aided design and manufacturing (CAD/CAM).

See the Machine embroidery portal page for a list of all embroidery-related topics.

In this short article, we shall introduce some basic principles. More technical information about computerized embroidery is available in other articles available indexed in the computerized embroidery category. Computerized embroidery machines are specialized machines that can create embroidery from computerized designs. Such machines exist for the home market, for the small independent professional and for mass production. Many home sewing machines can be turned into an embroidery machine by adding a hardware module. Embroidery machines can be found in fab labs and other maker spaces.

Embroidery design software exists in various form, either as special-purpose tools for various design stages or as complete design suites. Embroidery designs can be stored in a multitude of proprietary design formats, that can be exported to proprietary machine formats (now often sold over the Internet). Free "open source" designs files are difficult to find. Converter software between various machine formats exists. Most design formats cannot be translated.

See also:

History

It can be argued that computer-controlled embroidery machines are older than computers. In the beginning of the 19th century, Jacquard invented looms controlled by a "chain of cards". However, embroidery machines controlled in real-time by a "puncher" through pantographs dominated the market in the 19th century and lasted until the 1970's we believe. Models made between the two WWs used punched tapes for control, i.e. software driven embroidery machines became important. In the 1980 the first computer-controlled machines for the home market appeared (Wikipedia, retrieved May 2018). Chitter Chatter Embroidery Machine History and Ann the Gran Embroidery History include some interesting pictures.

According to Wikipedia and other sources, the first modern day computer controlled sewing machine was built by Orisol in 1987 for making shoes, i.e. much later than embroidery machines.

Stitching and design steps

More or less according to Wikipedia, the basic steps for creating an embroidery are as follows:

  • [Optional] Get or create a digitized embroidery design file in some kind of editable format. Typical formats are .emb, .exe, .dst, .cnd and .fdr. Each software manufacturer has its own proprietary format.
  • [Optional] Combine it with other designs, e.g. add some custom lettering (optional)
  • Translate the design to machine executable code (or get a file that is executable). Typical formats are .art, .pes, .jef, .sew and .hus (see below)
  • Load this "stitch" file into the embroidery machine
  • Stabilize and hoop the fabric and attach the hoop to the machine
  • Start and monitor the embroidery machine, i.e. change the thread if needed.

Creating a digitized embroidery file itself includes at least two steps:

  • (Optional) Create a drawing in an editable vector format. It is also possible to vectorize (traced) raster images, but this can be very time consuming.
  • Digitize (translate, punch) the vector drawing to a (preferably) editable embroidery design format. A stitchable design includes embroidery-specific information like stitches and thread color. Good software rather defines "stitch objects", e.g. lines and fills (columns and areas) that are parameterized with stitching information such as the filling patterns, density, stitch density, pull compensation, stitch direction, etc..
  • Export to machine-specific formats.

Typical paradigm

While some more modern machines perform actions like dropping a sequin to be sewn in place, most modern embroidery consists is entirely of the same looped interlock stitch that have been the mainstay of sewing machines since their inception. Computerized embroidery formats ultimately contain instructions for the embroidery machine to perform. Move to a new location in two different directions, move but block the needle-bar (jump), cut the thread, drop the needle, switch to the next thread. These are all the actions that a sewing machine can take, usually in increments of 1/10th a millimeter. The goal then within design software is often how to pattern these stitches in useful ways for the person using the software. These patterns result in a lot of the underlying concepts within embroidery software. Stitches like zig-zag, satin, flat fill, bean stitch, and others are simply straight stitches in particular patterns, and the methods used to generate these are not explicit to the media.

Typically modern embroidery software uses vector shapes with fills applied to the objects. This allows the users for editing of the objects and thus the fills those objects create and adjustments to the density, direction, or any other property used to generate the resulting stitches. The advantages to this is that embroidery can be done quickly. A lot of stitches in recognizable patterns can be applied quickly with skilled users getting the results they expect. The software then stores the vector object and the fill properties to generate the underlying stitches. When the underlying stitches are edited by the user, regenerating the stitches would lose those modifications.

While vectors are a key aspect of this paradigm, it's not the case that you could go from vector to embroidery without some additional information about the type of fill being applied to that object. While software could take a vector as the answer of where to fill, they don't answer the question of how to fill. There's also a considerable amount of things that are technically permitted of a series of short line-segments (and thus embroidery) but are not easily accomplished through the dominant paradigm.

This seems to be the reason there are so many different formats, basically a different one for each type of embroidery. And different versions of formats add more such features to the software. If you wish to edit a design later, you need to have all the objects the file used to generate the stitches. Often software suites develop different methods for filling various objects or different features and these are unique to that particular brand. It's also the reason why, even when some formats have vector information (say PES files), these are not loaded by other software (eg. Wilcom Trusizer) in a manner that could be resized beyond about 10% without noticeable loss of coverage for the fill. Other software that can load a format, will often only load the actual stitches themselves (since that's what, all embroidery files must have to be sewn), which prevents any editing of the shapes used to generate them initially.

A straight stitch or running stitch is the typical name for a stitch that is generally not in the pattern of one of the other types of stitches. Technically all stitches are the same and they are all running stitches. They can't be anything else.

Fill stitches, also called tatami stitch are montone fills of particularly defined areas. These tend to be a sort of flood fill done with stitches. Most modern embroidery software executes this by using vector objects which then have a fill applied to them.

Mathematically the objects being filled must be monotone or broken into different parts. Monotone geometric objects can be filled with an unbroken scanline starting from the top to the bottom without changing directions. Since some objects being filled will lack this property, the objects are converted into monotone objects by clipping off the non-monotone parts. These are then underpathed (a straight stitch to the other merge/split node occurring such that it will be covered) and filled, and merged with the current fill. There is a lot of differences in how this algorithm is implemented between different software suites.

Sometimes even monotone objects are broken in this manner to allow for a start and stop location to be predefined. If you are filling a circle from the top to bottom, but want to start from the left, the algorithm will need to underpath to the top, then fill to the bottom. If an exit location is needed, it will stop at the level of the exit-node, underpath to the bottom, then fill up to the exit position.

Satin stitches are so-called because they have a soft satiny look. They are geometrically sweep fills of sweepable objects. A sweepable object is one that can be completely filled by a sweepline that transverses the object and is permitted to change directions. By definition if an object is sweepable it is monotone, as it does not need to change directions. Satin stitches are usually done with areas small enough that a single stitch can fill the objects.

This covers most of the conceptual design aspects within embroidery software. Some popular tools like Wilcom B, generally work by creating the vector object and fill direction and fill information at the same time. Which is a step away from the paradigm of vector + fill -> embroidery.

Read embroidery stitch type for a short presentation of various options available in embroidery software.

Moving on

The concepts of computerized embroidery article will introduce some important practical concepts of machine embroidery. Embroidery stitch types are discussed in a separate piece. Hooping and stabilizing in computerized embroidery explain how to ready a fabric for embroidery.

Embroidery software tries to provide an overview of various embroidery software. Stitch Era tutorials is the starting point of a vector-drawing centric series of tutorials of a powerful and relatively cheap complete embroidery software. InkStitch is the start page of a tutorial series for an open-source platform based on Inkscape, the open source drawing program.

For technical people, software developers in particular, Embroidery format assembles everything that is known about propriety machine embroidery formats.

Links

General links

Sewing and embroidery websites (unsorted)
  • k2g2 “is an open platform that is spearheading the brains and crafts movement of the 21st century, taking a hacker's perspective on everything from handicraft to crafting machines”. This website includes good "portals" for machine knitting and machine embroidery. Best resource for open source projects, but doesn't show much activity over the years.
  • Embroidery Machine Encyclopedia (Wiki, 148 articles as of May 2017). As of Jan 2018, the site is full of spam (>20'000 pages) but still includes the useful information.
  • Sewing.org has free sew, quilt and craft projects
  • Sewing & Craft Alliance provides educational information and creative resources to the sewing and crafting enthusiast
  • SewReview, includes a blog with entries on various topics plus buying guides and reviews
  • eHow includes entries about sewing, embroidery, etc.
  • rumblr includes a few entries about sewing etc.
  • The Embroiderers' Guild of America (EGA). A few interesting links.
  • patternreview Popular site for sharing patterns and advise (including computerized stuff)
  • Embroidery. Nice traditional embroidery website for junior stitchters, textile students and teachers.
In other languages
Blogs
Other links of links
  • Embroidermodder has some good links (including broken ones, last update was 2004)

Introductions

(Retrieved April 2011, unless otherwise stated)

Introductions to traditional embroidery
  • Embroidery (Wikipedia). Follow-up the various Wikipedia links at the bottom.
Introductions to computerized embroidery
Introductions to computerized sewing machine
Introductions to normal sewing machine
Specialized tutorials

Software links

(see our own links in the embroidery software article)

Useful websites
Comparisons

The best table we found is Wikipedia's Comparison of embroidery software. However, it does not really choosing a good software.

A (good) 2013 comparison of software by Floriani (a software producer) is kept in the wayback machine

File formats

Hardware links

In other languages
Do it yourself

Free design repositories

There don't seem to be many truly free and easy to use websites. Most commercial web sites offer some free designs. In addition, some of the free open source or close source software packages include free designs (see above).

  • Thingiverse. Search for em broidery. As of 1/2018 only a few designs....
  • You could search for embroidery patterns on Flickr. Some are free (but you then need to digitize these or find another version)

Fablab work, open source, etc.

(more needed)

Bibliography and journals

Introductory books for machine embroidery
  • John Deer (2007). Digitizing Made Easy: Create Custom Embroidery Designs Like a Pro, Krause Publications. ISBN 0896894924 (Good introductory book to digitizing, a cheaper and simpler alternative to Nielsen)
  • Jones, Deborah. (2009). Machine Embroidery on Difficult Materials (Book & CD Rom), Krause Publications, ISBN 0896896544. (Explains how to embroider on silk, leather, lace, etc.)
  • Twigg, Jeanine (2001). Embroidery Machine Essentials: How to Stabilize, Hoop and Stitch Decorative Designs, Krause Publications, ISBN 9780873419994 (Useful for absolute beginners. There are several companion books from the same author).
Other introductory books for machine embroidery

(I don't have any of these, and therefore can't recommend any - DKS June 2011)

  • C&T Publishing (2004), All About Machine Arts, ISBN 9781571202277.
  • Betty Barnden (Author) (2003). The Embroidery Stitch Bible, Krause Publications, ISBN 9780873495103.
  • Deb Menz (2004). Color Works, Interweave Press, ISBN 1931499470 (This book address color for crafters).
  • Linda Turner Griepentrog, Rebecca Kemp Brent (2006). Machine Embroidery Wild & Wacky, Krause Publications.
  • Linda Miller (2010). Creative Machine Embroidery, A&C Black. ISBN 1408103982.
  • Van Holmes (2008). Encyclopedia of Machine Embroidery, Anova Batsford, ISBN 9781906388188.
Academic Journals (may contain articles about embroidery)
Research
  • Irene Posch and Ebru Kurbak. 2016. CRAFTED LOGIC Towards Hand-Crafting a Computer. In Proceedings of the 2016 CHI Conference Extended Abstracts on Human Factors in Computing Systems (CHI EA ’16). ACM, New York, NY, USA, 3881-3884. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1145/2851581.2891101
Trade journals
  • Graphics Pro, includes articles about embroidery (some education)
  • Impressions, information for apparel (screen printing, embroidery, heat-applied graphics and digital decorating).