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== Introduction ==
== Introduction ==
[[image:rapman-tecfa.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Rapman V 3.1. assembled at TECFA (picture taken just after assembly in January 2010)]]


'''RapMan''' is a commercial kit of the [http://reprap.org/ RepRap] 3D printer. “RepRap is short for ''Replicating Rapid-prototyper'' since it was developed in a research project on self-replicating machines.  
'''RapMan''' was one of the first commercial kits of the [http://reprap.org/ RepRap] 3D printer sold from 2009. '''RepRap''' is short for ''Replicating Rapid-prototyper'' since it was developed in a research project on self-replicating machines. TECFA bought its kit in november 2009 and we assembled it in the end of January 2010 ([[file:Invoice490DanielSchneider.pdf|thumb|PDF]]) As of 2019, it is displayed as museum piece in our location at Uni Pignon, Geneva.


This 3D printer builds the parts up in layers of plastic with the help of a custom-made Thermoplast Extruder. The machine takes a 3mm diameter filament of a polymer, forces it down a heated barrel, and then extrudes it as a melt out of a fine nozzle. The resulting thin stream is laid down in layers to form the parts that RepRap makes. The extruder should work up to a temperature of 260 degrees Celsius”. It works with various polymers like ABS (Lego-like plastic) and polylactic acid. The extruder can move left/right (X axis) and forward/backward (Y axis) The printed object sits on a platform that will move down (Z axis)
See also:
* The [[fab lab]] article for a wider perspective with respect to this kind of technology.
* [[Assembling the RapMan V3.1 3D printer]]
* [[Fabbster 3D printer]]
* [[Felix 3D printer]]
* [[First steps with the RapMan V3.1 3D printer]] and the related [[BfB Axon]] and/or [[Skeinforge for RapMan]] and/or [[Netfabb engine for RapMan]] for details about the tools that allows to generate [[g-code]], i.e. the CAM code that will drive the printer.
* [[Post processing of 3D polymer prints]]
* All my [[:Category:RapMan|RapMan related entries]].  
* There is also a [[EduTech_Wiki:Books/RapMan_essentials|RapMan essentials wiki book]] and a [[EduTech_Wiki:Books/Rapman_in_education|RapMan wiki book]] (everything included) that you can download as PDF.


This article has two functions:
This 3D printer builds the parts up in layers of plastic with the help of a custom-made Thermoplast Extruder. The machine takes a 3mm diameter filament of a polymer, forces it down a heated barrel, and then extrudes it as a melt out of a fine nozzle. The resulting thin stream is laid down in layers to form the parts that RepRap makes. The extruder should work up to a temperature of 260 degrees Celsius.  It works with various polymers like ABS (Lego-like plastic) and polylactic acid. The extruder can move left/right (X axis) and forward/backward (Y axis) The printed object sits on a platform that will move down (Z axis)
* It's a '''meta manual''' for '''Rapman version 3.1''': We will try to explain how RapMan works in order to help the reader understanding stages of assembly and we will point out to the most important manuals and other information sources you should read
* We will add some missing points and report some difficulties.


== Parts, manuals and workspace ==
Printing instructions are written in a language called G-code. A user will copy a g-code file to an SD card. This card is then inserted into a slot of the RapMan board for printing.


[[image:rapman-delivered.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Boxes from RapMan delivered on Jan 2010]].
== Assembling RapMan V3.1 ==
When we ordered a RepRap it came in a fairly small plastic-wrapped cardboard box. In addition, we got some boxes with polymer filaments (6 ABS rolls and some others ...). To the left is a picture.


You may check the insides of the boxes. E.g. compare contents to the list that you can find in each of the three following manuals, i.e. in the "included" section in the begging.
Assembly of V3.1 RapMan takes at least three full days. It can be done by any person who has good reading skills, patience and some "gift" for assembly. Bits from Bytes did produce a mostly very good set of documentation.
# Build manual (for the "cartesian robot")
# Extruder manual
# Hot End manual (pink cables were missing from both the 3.1 version ''and'' in our case in the delivered kit)


[[image:bad-base-bed-hole.jpg|thumb|left|100px|Bad base bed hole in the Rapman kit]]
It is very important to understand what you are going to build. E.g. it's a good idea to look at a video like this[http://awards.becta.org.uk/display.cfm?resid=41885 film made for BECTA].
Finally, there may be faulty pieces. In our case the holes in the ''base bed'' (page 51 of the build manual) were not straight. Other folks in the forum reported this problem. IMHO ours were sort of straight enough. The setup, i.e. a bolt with spring that ties down the print bed is used to micro-adjust the level of the print bed in 3 dimensions (see the operations manual).


It's easier to reserve a lot of space for assembly. At TECFA, we used our seminar room and took about 2 x 6 meters :). See picture to the right.
You also should understand more or less the following picture:
[[image:rapman-parts-layout.jpg|thumb|right|300px|none|The workspace]]
[[image:Rapman-3-1-schema.jpg|thumb|600px|none|Rapman 3.1. schema - Source: [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/ bits from Bytes, build manual 3.1 - printed] (reproduced without permission)]]


Now, keep the following picture from the build manual in mind. This is what you are going to build. The most important parts are labeled (we added the hot end, i.e. part of the extruder that will heat the plastic filament).
'''Further reading''': Our [[Assembling the RapMan V3.1 3D printer]] provides a more detailed overview of the assembly procedure. In addition, you may consult both the [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/fora/user/index.php?board=2.0 Bits from Bytes "build" forum] and the [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/ BFB wiki].
[[image:Rapman-3-1-schema.jpg|frame|none|Rapman 3.1. schema - Source: [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/ bits from Bytes, build manual 3.1 - printed]]


You also should look a real picture, below is ours:
== First steps with RapMan V3.1 ==
[[image:rapman-tecfa.jpg|frame|none|Rapman 3.1. assembled at TECFA (just after assembly)]]


=== Overview of the manuals ===
If you managed to assemble you RapMan in a correct way, printing simple objects is fairly easy:
* Download an .STL file from somewhere
* Convert to [[g-code]] with [[Skeinforge for RapMan|skeinforge]] or Netfabb basic
* Print ...


All manuals are available at [http://bitsfrombytes.com/ Bits from Bytes]. At the time of writing (feb 2010) they could be found in the [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=80&Itemid=100009 downloads] section. The "build info" section includes outdated version. So, in any case, always make sure that you get the manuals for the version you ordered, e.g. RapMan 3.1. Here is a list of the manuals:
See the [[First steps with the RapMan V3.1 3D printer]]. It attempts to explain all the basics.
* '''Build Manual - Printed''': This manual explains how to assemble the so-called '''cartesian robot'''. This refers to the printer (including the motors and the belts that will move the extruder in the X/Y axis and the plate up/down (Z-axis). In other words, it's all that's mechanical, except the extruder.
* '''3D Build Manual part 1''': As above but include 3D models that you can view in PDF. Click on a "picture" to enter 3D mode. Make sure to install the latest PDF version and to use a PC with a decent graphics card. Also, explore the Acrobat menu to the left. You can add-remove parts for better visibility.
* '''3D Build Manual Part 2''': As above, part 2. Also includes writing of the motors and the controller.
* '''Animated Build Manual''': As above, but includes animations. We didn't use this manual.
* '''Build Manual Videos''': This manual includes three videos that show how to build some of the more difficult parts.
* '''Extruder Manual''': Explains how to assemble the extruder, i.e. the print head that will be moved around in X/Y directions by the "cartesian robot". It will pull in the plastic filament and feed it into the so-called attached '''hot end''' which you somewhere during the assembly process. Finally it also explains how to wire the extruder to the controller.
* '''Hot End Manual''': Explains how to assemble the hot end. The hot end will heat the plastic. It's a bit tricky to assemble, since you have to wrap a heating wire around, attach a temperature probe and cover with fire cement in several stages.
* Operations Manual: Explains how to calibrate and use the printer. In particular: calibrate the print head, update the firmware, use the controller interface and print files.


'''Notice''': In some case, the newer version did not have enough information to understand the process. E.g. we looked at some 3.0 version manuals where procedures are explained in more detail. '''However''', this information needed to be adapted, '''because some parts are not the same''' and generally speaking 3.1 is '''easier''', in particular assembling the hot end !
See also:
* [[Skeinforge for RapMan]] for details about the tool that allows to generate [[g-code]]
* [[G-code]] CAM code that will drive the printer.
* [[Post processing of 3D polymer prints]]


As of Feb 2010, the build manual is quite superb (with little mistakes), the extruder manual is ok enough, since at this stage you can build without reading .... The hot end manual is not good enough (yet).
== Software tools and tool chain ==


=== Tools ===
=== Process overview ===


Then you will have to buy tools. All except two can be easily found in a do-it-yourself store.
There are three situations:
'''Read''': [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/pdfs/V3.0.0/V3Info.pdf V3Info.pdf] (this file may not sit next to the build manual).
* You just want to print existing models with a minimum of hassle
Dictionary (terms are in UK English):
* You may take existing models and adapt (or even merge parts)
* A '''spanner''' is called '''Wrench''' in US English, "clef à écrous" en français
* You'd like to model printable 3D objects
* Allen key is a "hex key" or "hex head wrench"
* A Needle file is a small abrasive file. 


'''(1) Easy to find tools''':
''' (1) Modeling''':


* 4mm Spanner 1
To model, there are several options:
* 5.5mm Spanner 1
* Create a mashup (take several objects and combine them)
* 8mm Spanner 1
* Learn how to use a multi-purpose [[3D modeling]] software
* 13mm Spanner 2
* Use some special purpose easy-to-use modeling software
* 1.5mm Ball End Allen Key 1 (it's important to get ball ended keys, since sometimes you will "come in diagonally". We suggest to buy quality tools, because of easier fit).
* Learn how to use [[Computer-aided design and manufacturing]] software
* 2.5mm Ball End Allen Key 1
* Scan a real object, e.g. with the low cost [[David Laserscanner]]
* 4mm Ball End Allen Key 1
* 2mm Flat Blade Screw Driver 1 (get a good one, this is need for attaching wires to the board)
* Tape Measure 1
* Soldering Iron 1
* 1/2 Round Needle File 1  (we actually suggest to buy several ones including a square-shaped one. Since these are used by modeling fans you can get handful of various shapes for about 5 to 15 Euros (depending on quality). We got the cheap ones.
* Wire Cutters 1 (maybe not needed, since a stripper also can cut)
* Wire Strippers


''' (2) Difficult to find tools''':
''' (2) Combining meshes'''


* A good multimeter that can measure small resistance. Not difficult to find actually, but my not be found in a supermarket. We didn't test resistances as we should have ... ;)
Meshes (different objects) may be combined / merged. You can do this with the free Netfabb Studio and Meshlab programs. Creation of simple mashups with Netfabb and Meshlab is explained in the [[Meshlab for RapMan tutorial]] article.
* A 1/16<nowiki>''</nowiki> Allen key. We found it w/o problem in a hardware store that sells to professionals


''' (3) Extra tools''' (not mentioned in the bills of tools)
An easier solution is to acquire the [http://www.netfabb.com/ Netfabb Professional]. It can export several objects (originally from *.STL files and other sources) as a single .STL file.


* You might acquire a key that can measure a '''small''' torque pressure (the typical thing you get in a do-it-yourself shop is just good for the nuts on car wheels). This is an expensive professional tool. We didn't get one. (see practice run)
''' (3) Create and fix the .STL '''


* At least two Pliers. One should be long and flat. Useful for holding nuts in place before you use the keys. Cheap ones will do.
In most cases, your 3D general purpose modeling or CAD program can't directly produce g-code. You first must export the
model to .STL (or another format like *.PlY).  


* A small (!) tube of super glue. I broke the extruder wheel (the only thing we broke) and fixed it with super glue :)
You then may need to fix your .STL model, i.e. first make sure it has the right size and the right position. But there may be more tricky issues, like repairing "holes" (use [http://www.netfabb.com/ Netfabb] for this)


* A hammer. You are allowed to use it only once though :(
The coordinate system of the RapMan puts the origin in the middle. To manipulate size and coordinates, there are some options:


* Various meters, i.e. a long flat 2 meters for measuring cables and a small metal one (preferably one whose end starts at zero, else a plastic office-type one can also do). The latter one is to measure distances in the assembly and for selecting bolts.
* Use skeinforge: turn on multiply plugin in skeinforge, setting the matrix to 1x1 or another value
* Use Netfabb for more simple resizing and moving operations (that's what I use)


* A (no bigger than 2GB) standard SD card. It will be inserted into the board to print files.
''' (4) Create [[G-code]] '''


== The assembly procedure ==
Then produce the [[g-code]], e.g. with [[Skeinforge for RapMan|Skeinforge]] or with Netfabb basic.


=== Practice run and parts terminology ===
=== Typical tool chain scenarios ===


The practice run has three important functions:
... for beginners !


(1) You will learn how much you can tighten the screws. The golden rule is simple: really '''ringer tight''' then '''add 1/2 turn''' with a key.
''' Reusing ready to print objects '''


(2) Terminology: Although we do understand English, we didn't know about these:
* Get a model from [http://www.thingiverse.com/ Thingyverse] (or another repository for 3D printable objects. Make sure to select one that has a "rapman" or "reprap" tag on it. A fun thing to do would be printing all the [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1983 Beco] blocks. Since they are all similar, you can vary printing parameters and learn about calibration of small simple object printing without having to look at the same object...
* A washer is a "flat disk" (rondelle in french)
* You likely will find almost directly usable .STL files, but you may have to align them to x/y/z = 0. You also may find various source formats produced with various 3D modelers.
Also remember to look at the "big picture" on top for terminology of the rapman parts.
* Import to skeinforge or netfabb and generate g-code. In both cases, make sure that it sits in the right position.
* Then verify the g-code manually


(3) Learn how to read the manual. You quickly will learn about the names of nuts and bolts:
''' Build an easy model with an easy 3D modeler '''


* Build a model with Google sketchup
* Export to Collada .DAE
* Import to Meshlab and save as .STL
* Import to NetFabb and repair, then save as .STL again
* Import to skeinforge and produce g-code


=== The cartesian robot ===
* See [[Sketchup 3D printable objects tutorial]] for an example


The cartesian robot is fairly easy to build if you understand English and are used to read computer manuals for example.
''' Merge meshes '''


Things that will go wrong:
* Do as above, i.e. either build 2 or more models or grab them from somewhere.
* Some pieces may be assembled in a wrong way. Make sure to pay attention to "asymmetric" pieces.
* See also the [[Netfabb Studio tutorial]] for an example on how to create easy duplo-webdings mashups
* Again: '''Do not over-tighten'''. Plexy glass can shatter quickly.
* Import all to Meshlab as "layers", flatten the layers and export as .STL
* Geometry. If you do it right, most everything should be "cubic", i.e. distances and 90 degree angles. If you get that wrong, the printer will not work properly ....
* Then as above


=== The extruder and hot end ===
* See [[Meshlab for RapMan tutorial]]


The extruder and the hot end is described in different manuals plus in the PDF with videos.
== In education ==


The extruder manual explains how to assemble the mechanical parts of the Extruder. This part is fairly easy.
See
* [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Teaching_Resources Teaching Resources] (BitsforBytes Wiki)
* [[3D printers in education]]


The hot end manual is not clear enough:
== A last word of advice ==
* The manual includes instructions for two different versions of the kit, i.e. insulated vs. non-insulated nichrome. Nichrome is a resistance wire that will heat. It's the kind of wire you may find in a toaster.


* The parts you get are not the same as the ones described in the manual. E.g. the kit already included a non-isolated nichrome  with the bootlace ferrules attached (i.e. step 9 on page 5 ''already'' was completed in the kit I got).
[[image:rapman-duck2.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Duck printing is not very hard]]
* At some point you '''really''' must understand the interaction of relationship between Head speed (how fast the extruder moves on the X/Y axis) and extrusion Rate (RPM, how much plastic comes out) and how they impact Layer thickness.


[[image:rapman-extruder-hot-end-parts.jpg|frame|none|Hot end + some other intriguing parts]]
* Always extrude 1/2 m of filament before printing. Also play with temperatures. E.g. 247 for ABS may be too much.


The nozzle assembly (part one) is easy. The tricky part is wrapping the nichrome, fire cementing it, adding the thermistor and fire cement again.
* Make sure that your .STL files have the x/y/z values set right. Minimal z value = 0. The middle of the object should roughly sit on x=0 and y=0. Get the free [http://www.netfabb.com/ Netfabb Studio] to achieve this. Also use this software to clean up bad .STL files.


Here is what we did:
* Then move on and try to figure out how to calibrate for different parts of objects and different kinds of objects. As we mentioned before, Skeinforge documentation is not easy to understand (in the absence of better you can wade through the forums or read [http://edutechwiki.unige.ch/en/Skeinforge_for_RapMan this] or buy the [http://www.netfabb.com/rapman_basic.php for RapMan Basic] software.
* Attach the nichrome to cables (as explained). You have to attach wires with the ferrules and squeeze these with a plier, then slide the yellow head-proof sleeves over it (in the manual, explained before nozzle assemble)
* Put a small layer of fire cement around the aluminum nozzle
* Make sure that the wires will be on the side of the hole of the MDF !
* Wrap the nichrome around (make sure they don't touch)
* Add fire cement (be careful not to smear anything inside the nozzle hole or the thermistor hole), then wait 12h
* Add the thermistor (this is a bit tricky since you'll have to add fire cement.
* Then cook with the ventilator outlets (as explained in the manual)
* Then add more fire cement to make it look pretty.
* Cook again (actually much longer than they say)


Since we didn't have a good enough multimeter, we didn't test anything after it. If we made it wrong, we'd have to order a new hot end kit anyhow ...
* '''Home print head''' with the menu in the board and '''switch it off/on''' after each printing (in particular if you print high objects or if you manually moved the extruder).


== Test printing and tuning ==
* Do not leave your printer unattended ! Make sure that filament wheel turns smoothly and that the pressure wheels are tight: Tighten quite a lot (without forcing), then untighten when the motor stops, i.e. you hear a loud clicking.


=== Last minute checks and trouble shooting ===
* Print some [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Spare_parts spare parts] once you figured out how to correctly print ABS (have to check it they correspond to V3.1, I thing that having a second extruder gear would quite smart.


Check the following (we all of these wrong in some ways)
'''Moving on''':


(1) Alignment of the X and Y axis
'''Explore other RapMan-related articles''' in the [[:Category:RapMan|category RapMan]]. You may follow the order suggested in the [[EduTech Wiki:Books/Rapman in education|wiki book]].
* Alignment of the X and Y axis is crucial. If badly aligned then a circle may print as ugly sort of square. This happened to us, because we took the Y belts away to check the motor.


(2) Belt tensions
== Links ==
* Make sure all three are tight


(3) Z belt tension and alignment
=== BitsfromBytes RepRap ===
* Make sure that the end of the rods, i.e. the ball bearings sit in their casings (rebates). File these again if necessary. If you don't the Z axis will be misaligned (or you hear noisy clicks, because the belt will not be aligned properly)
* [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/ Bits from Bytes]. Sells RepRap kits (£750 / CHF 1270).... i.e. the one we describe here. This web site also includes a forum and a wiki. You need '''both'''.
* The [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/fora/user/index.php forum] is '''the''' place to look for advice and help.
* The [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/ wiki] includes information that can not be found in the PDF manuals, in particular with respect to modeling and printing. E.g.
** [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Skeinforge Skeinforge]
** [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Rapman_v3.1_building_and_getting_started_overview Rapman v3.1 building and getting started overview] (On BitsfromBytes Wiki, cloned from an early version of this article on 12 March 2010)


(4) Extruder
=== Research Reprap 3D printer ===
* That was '''my''' huge mistake: I attached the '''pressure wheels in the wrong way'''. The side where the wheels stick out should be toward the extruder. Else it won't move the wire. Big frustration after you try to print the test pattern :(
* [http://www.reprap.org/ RepRap], a British project, is short for Replicating Rapid-prototyper. This 3D printer builds the parts up in layers of plastics. It can be assembled from parts bought in various places. There exist '''many''' commercial designs derived from various RepRap versions, see [[3D printing]].
* Make sure that is nicely attached. At some point I remove the extruder to check the nozzle and forgot to tighten 2 screws. Result was a skewed print.
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap_Project RepRap Project] (Wikipedia)
* [http://reprap.org/bin/view/Main/ShowCase Introduction to Reprap], retrieved  24 June 2009.
* [http://reprap.blogspot.com/ RepRap Official Blog]


(5) Attached wires
* Spare parts: See [http://www.reprapsource.com/ reprapsource]. German company that sells spare parts.
* Even if you did attach the wires to the board and the 25 way pin as told, they may become loose. E.g. in our case the red wire for the Y motor became loose on the board and the motor would just crank a little bit forward and backward. We thought that it would be a too tight Y Drive shaft, disassembled this one and the wound up with misaligned Y belts, i.e. the the X carriage wasn't aligned anymore with the Y(0) end...


(6) Search for loose nuts and bolts (also after printing a few test objects)
=== Polymers ===


=== Calibrating ===
* We only bought ABS and PLA rolls from [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/ Bits from Bytes]
* There are alternative solutions, e.g. [http://www.orbi-tech.com/ orbi-tech] in Germany [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/fora/user/index.php?topic=830.0 is rumored] to have good easily printable [http://www.orbi-tech.de/shop/Plastic-Welding-Rod/PLA:::30_46.html PLA].


'''Rough alignment of the print bed''':
=== Tools ===


* Align the bed horizontally with respect to the Z axis. I.e. remove the Z belt and turn the rods
See [[3D modeling]] and [[Computer-aided design and manufacturing‎‎]] for two kinds of 3D modeling tools. Google sketchup is probably the easiest tool for beginners.
* Keep the print head at a safe distance, e.g. 0.5 cm and move it around. Then go closer until you are more or less satisfied.


Copy the '''Control Interface''' page of the operation manual and over-line the important manual move mode commands.
For 3D printing you then need specific tools to repair STL files and to generate the g-code:


Then move around in all three axis. If a motor won't work, check wirings. If you hear strange noises, check alignments and belt tension.
; Skeinforge (a tool chain for producing g-code)
: [http://fabmetheus.blogspot.com/ The skeinforge announcement and troubleshooting blog]
: [http://fabmetheus.crsndoo.com/ download] of the software


'''Fine tuning of the print bed alignment'''
; netfabb (an integrated software tailored for additive fabrication, rapid prototyping and 3D printing)
: [http://www.netfabb.com/ Official netfabb website]
: can resize, position and '''repair''' STL.
: A base version (''netfabb Studio'') is free, Netfabb professional is 700 Euros (plus VAT), educational pricing is available on demand.
: A commercial reprap plugin can generate g-code. I.e. this is an alternative to skeinforge.


Adjust the print bed with bolts. This is a bit tricky and needs several iterations. In '''each''' position, the nozzle should be about 0.5 mm away. We used five sheets of 70mg paper (500 sheets = 5cm) to do this.
; SolidView light (not needed)
: [http://www.solidview.com/svlite.html SolidView light] is a free program with support for SFX, STL, SolidWorks, VRML, and OBJ CAD files. I.e. it can be used to look at STL files.


'''Go slowly''' !
; Pleasant3D (not needed)
: [http://www.pleasantsoftware.com/developer/pleasant3d/ Pleasant3D] Visualization of STL plus minor editing in order to be printable on MakerBots/Rapmans: Move, rotate, resize.


=== Printing the test pattern ===
; Meshlab (not needed, to convert files to .STL and to merge .STL files)
: [http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ MeshLab]
: See [[Meshlab for RapMan tutorial]]. Meshlab is '''the''' open source, portable, and extensible system for the processing and editing of unstructured 3D triangular meshes.


(1) Upgrade the firmware as explained in the operations manual. To do so you need:
=== Rapman sites by users ===
* A small to normal USB cable
* The HIDBootLoader.exe application
* The firmware, e.g. file RapMan2_0_8.hex (as of Feb 2010)


(2) Then print the test raft pattern.
* [http://rapman3d.savoie.info/ rapman3d.savoie] A hour's drive away from TECFA :)
* Copy file '''TestRa.bfb'' to the SD card
* Insert in the board and print ...


(3) Repair the TestRa.bfb file to make it fit your situation. Most likely temperatures are too low (see G-code below).
* [http://blog.arcol.hu/ Arcol blog]


=== First print ===
* [http://planet.arcol.hu/ Planet RepRap]. This is an aggregator that pulls in information from many sources.


[[image:rapman-first-print.jpg|thumb|right|200px|First prints ]]
* [http://www.google.com/reader/bundle/user%2F04483651751598287761%2Fbundle%2FRepRap%20RepStrap%20Aggregate%20Feed Google reader RepRap RepStrap Aggregate Feed], bundle created by nuaetius
Then print the cup (it may take several attemps to get it right). In the pictures are our second (white) and fourth (yellow) attemps. You also can see the raft made for the yellow version.
[[image:rapman-first-print1.jpg|thumb|800px|none|First prints]]


Both cups are not yet satisfactory. Some tuning ahead - 15:12, 28 February 2010 (UTC).
=== Shared designs ===


== Printing ==
See [[3D assets]] for a longer list
 
* [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Things_to_make Thing to make] (Rapman wiki)
If you use ABS plastic (by default you like do) then you must understand the following:
* [http://www.thingiverse.com/ thingyverse].
 
* You should first print a '''raft''' at a somewhat lower temperature (else it will stick to the print bed)
* Then, the object will be printed on top.


'''The three print parameters'''
=== Print services ===


It is important to understand that printing will be affected by three parameters:
If you like your prototype and want it printed more professionally. Several kinds of materials, including metal...
# Temperature
# Extrusion speed (how fast the bolt turns in the extruder)
# Head movement speed
In addition:
* Pressure on the extruder's pressure wheels. They have to be fairly tight.


These all interact somewhat and that makes calibration difficult.
* [http://www.shapeways.com/ Shapeways]. They take STL, VRML, Collada & X3D formats with some constraints, e.g. less than 500'000 polygons, a watertight mesh, etc.
* [http://www.sculpteo.com/ Sculpteo]


'''Temperatures for ABS'''
=== Propaganda ===


White ABS:
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5Uvx__RuqI&feature=player_embedded BCC Video] / early 2010)
* Raft temperature: 235 (or a bit more)
* [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Media Media] (BitsforBytes Wiki)
* Print temperature: 240-245 (or a bit more)
* [http://awards.becta.org.uk/display.cfm?resid=41885 A film made for BECTA] starring David White.


Color ABS:
{{copyrightalso | Contents of this page (including pictures) are also available under [http://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html GNU General Public licence] and Creative commons [http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/ Attribution-Share Alike 3.0]. E.g. companies that sells RepRap kits can take the contents ...}}
* Raft temperature: 235 (or a bit more)
* Print temperature  243-248 (or a bit more)
 
It is likely that may need to adjust temperatures to your setting. We think that it may be because the thermistor may not be exactly where it should be (how could you check under the cement ...), wiring may be different (length of resistances), etc.
 
You can manually adjust temperatures during printing, but you may have to react quite quickly. Also there may be a problem with transport of the filament (e.g. temperature is hot enough, but plastic is not coming in...)
 
''' Extrusion speed and pressure wheels on the extruder '''
* To see if the plastic moves down I painted small dots on the wire.
* Tighten quite a lot (without forcing of course). If the filament does not move, add pressure.
* Until you got it all sorted out, I recommend putting the print head in position (x max and y min, e.g. over the hole that is diagonally opposite from home). Then manually extrude about half a meter of filament at the temperature you set in the G-code file. See if flows as advertised ...
 
=== G-code ===
 
 
 
 
=== 3d model into G-Code ===
 
Skeinforge is a tool chain composed of Python scripts that converts your 3d model into G-Code instructions for Rapman.
* Download: [http://fabmetheus.crsndoo.com/ Skeinforge]
 
* Read [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Skeinforge Skeinforge]
 
== In education ==
 
See [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Teaching_Resources Teaching Resources] (BitsforBytes Wiki)
 
== Links ==
 
=== Research Reprap 3D printer ===
* [http://www.reprap.org/ RepRap], a British project, is short for Replicating Rapid-prototyper. This 3D printer builds the parts up in layers of plastics. It can be assembled from parts bought in various places.
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap_Project RepRap Project] (Wikipedia)
* [http://reprap.org/bin/view/Main/ShowCase Introduction to Reprap], retrieved  24 June 2009.
* [http://reprap.blogspot.com/ RepRap Official Blog]
 
* Spare parts: See [http://www.reprapsource.com/ reprapsource]. German company that sells spare parts.
 
=== BitsfromBytes RepRap ===
* [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/ Bits from Bytes]. Sells RepRap kits (£750 / CHF 1270).
* This web site also includes a forum an a wiki.
 
=== Shared designs ===
 
* [http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Things_to_make Thing to make] (Rapman wiki)
* [http://www.thingiverse.com/ thingyverse].


[[Category:Hardware]]
[[Category:Hardware]]
[[Category:3D]]
[[Category:3D]]
[[Category:RapMan]]
[[Category: Fab lab]]
[[Category: 3D printing]]

Latest revision as of 19:40, 1 April 2019

Introduction

Rapman V 3.1. assembled at TECFA (picture taken just after assembly in January 2010)

RapMan was one of the first commercial kits of the RepRap 3D printer sold from 2009. RepRap is short for Replicating Rapid-prototyper since it was developed in a research project on self-replicating machines. TECFA bought its kit in november 2009 and we assembled it in the end of January 2010 (File:Invoice490DanielSchneider.pdf) As of 2019, it is displayed as museum piece in our location at Uni Pignon, Geneva.

See also:

This 3D printer builds the parts up in layers of plastic with the help of a custom-made Thermoplast Extruder. The machine takes a 3mm diameter filament of a polymer, forces it down a heated barrel, and then extrudes it as a melt out of a fine nozzle. The resulting thin stream is laid down in layers to form the parts that RepRap makes. The extruder should work up to a temperature of 260 degrees Celsius. It works with various polymers like ABS (Lego-like plastic) and polylactic acid. The extruder can move left/right (X axis) and forward/backward (Y axis) The printed object sits on a platform that will move down (Z axis)

Printing instructions are written in a language called G-code. A user will copy a g-code file to an SD card. This card is then inserted into a slot of the RapMan board for printing.

Assembling RapMan V3.1

Assembly of V3.1 RapMan takes at least three full days. It can be done by any person who has good reading skills, patience and some "gift" for assembly. Bits from Bytes did produce a mostly very good set of documentation.

It is very important to understand what you are going to build. E.g. it's a good idea to look at a video like thisfilm made for BECTA.

You also should understand more or less the following picture:

Rapman 3.1. schema - Source: bits from Bytes, build manual 3.1 - printed (reproduced without permission)

Further reading: Our Assembling the RapMan V3.1 3D printer provides a more detailed overview of the assembly procedure. In addition, you may consult both the Bits from Bytes "build" forum and the BFB wiki.

First steps with RapMan V3.1

If you managed to assemble you RapMan in a correct way, printing simple objects is fairly easy:

  • Download an .STL file from somewhere
  • Convert to g-code with skeinforge or Netfabb basic
  • Print ...

See the First steps with the RapMan V3.1 3D printer. It attempts to explain all the basics.

See also:

Software tools and tool chain

Process overview

There are three situations:

  • You just want to print existing models with a minimum of hassle
  • You may take existing models and adapt (or even merge parts)
  • You'd like to model printable 3D objects

(1) Modeling:

To model, there are several options:

(2) Combining meshes

Meshes (different objects) may be combined / merged. You can do this with the free Netfabb Studio and Meshlab programs. Creation of simple mashups with Netfabb and Meshlab is explained in the Meshlab for RapMan tutorial article.

An easier solution is to acquire the Netfabb Professional. It can export several objects (originally from *.STL files and other sources) as a single .STL file.

(3) Create and fix the .STL

In most cases, your 3D general purpose modeling or CAD program can't directly produce g-code. You first must export the model to .STL (or another format like *.PlY).

You then may need to fix your .STL model, i.e. first make sure it has the right size and the right position. But there may be more tricky issues, like repairing "holes" (use Netfabb for this)

The coordinate system of the RapMan puts the origin in the middle. To manipulate size and coordinates, there are some options:

  • Use skeinforge: turn on multiply plugin in skeinforge, setting the matrix to 1x1 or another value
  • Use Netfabb for more simple resizing and moving operations (that's what I use)

(4) Create G-code

Then produce the g-code, e.g. with Skeinforge or with Netfabb basic.

Typical tool chain scenarios

... for beginners !

Reusing ready to print objects

  • Get a model from Thingyverse (or another repository for 3D printable objects. Make sure to select one that has a "rapman" or "reprap" tag on it. A fun thing to do would be printing all the Beco blocks. Since they are all similar, you can vary printing parameters and learn about calibration of small simple object printing without having to look at the same object...
  • You likely will find almost directly usable .STL files, but you may have to align them to x/y/z = 0. You also may find various source formats produced with various 3D modelers.
  • Import to skeinforge or netfabb and generate g-code. In both cases, make sure that it sits in the right position.
  • Then verify the g-code manually

Build an easy model with an easy 3D modeler

  • Build a model with Google sketchup
  • Export to Collada .DAE
  • Import to Meshlab and save as .STL
  • Import to NetFabb and repair, then save as .STL again
  • Import to skeinforge and produce g-code

Merge meshes

  • Do as above, i.e. either build 2 or more models or grab them from somewhere.
  • See also the Netfabb Studio tutorial for an example on how to create easy duplo-webdings mashups
  • Import all to Meshlab as "layers", flatten the layers and export as .STL
  • Then as above

In education

See

A last word of advice

Duck printing is not very hard
  • At some point you really must understand the interaction of relationship between Head speed (how fast the extruder moves on the X/Y axis) and extrusion Rate (RPM, how much plastic comes out) and how they impact Layer thickness.
  • Always extrude 1/2 m of filament before printing. Also play with temperatures. E.g. 247 for ABS may be too much.
  • Make sure that your .STL files have the x/y/z values set right. Minimal z value = 0. The middle of the object should roughly sit on x=0 and y=0. Get the free Netfabb Studio to achieve this. Also use this software to clean up bad .STL files.
  • Then move on and try to figure out how to calibrate for different parts of objects and different kinds of objects. As we mentioned before, Skeinforge documentation is not easy to understand (in the absence of better you can wade through the forums or read this or buy the for RapMan Basic software.
  • Home print head with the menu in the board and switch it off/on after each printing (in particular if you print high objects or if you manually moved the extruder).
  • Do not leave your printer unattended ! Make sure that filament wheel turns smoothly and that the pressure wheels are tight: Tighten quite a lot (without forcing), then untighten when the motor stops, i.e. you hear a loud clicking.
  • Print some spare parts once you figured out how to correctly print ABS (have to check it they correspond to V3.1, I thing that having a second extruder gear would quite smart.

Moving on:

Explore other RapMan-related articles in the category RapMan. You may follow the order suggested in the wiki book.

Links

BitsfromBytes RepRap

  • Bits from Bytes. Sells RepRap kits (£750 / CHF 1270).... i.e. the one we describe here. This web site also includes a forum and a wiki. You need both.
  • The forum is the place to look for advice and help.
  • The wiki includes information that can not be found in the PDF manuals, in particular with respect to modeling and printing. E.g.

Research Reprap 3D printer

  • RepRap, a British project, is short for Replicating Rapid-prototyper. This 3D printer builds the parts up in layers of plastics. It can be assembled from parts bought in various places. There exist many commercial designs derived from various RepRap versions, see 3D printing.
  • RepRap Project (Wikipedia)
  • Introduction to Reprap, retrieved 24 June 2009.
  • RepRap Official Blog
  • Spare parts: See reprapsource. German company that sells spare parts.

Polymers

Tools

See 3D modeling and Computer-aided design and manufacturing‎‎ for two kinds of 3D modeling tools. Google sketchup is probably the easiest tool for beginners.

For 3D printing you then need specific tools to repair STL files and to generate the g-code:

Skeinforge (a tool chain for producing g-code)
The skeinforge announcement and troubleshooting blog
download of the software
netfabb (an integrated software tailored for additive fabrication, rapid prototyping and 3D printing)
Official netfabb website
can resize, position and repair STL.
A base version (netfabb Studio) is free, Netfabb professional is 700 Euros (plus VAT), educational pricing is available on demand.
A commercial reprap plugin can generate g-code. I.e. this is an alternative to skeinforge.
SolidView light (not needed)
SolidView light is a free program with support for SFX, STL, SolidWorks, VRML, and OBJ CAD files. I.e. it can be used to look at STL files.
Pleasant3D (not needed)
Pleasant3D Visualization of STL plus minor editing in order to be printable on MakerBots/Rapmans: Move, rotate, resize.
Meshlab (not needed, to convert files to .STL and to merge .STL files)
MeshLab
See Meshlab for RapMan tutorial. Meshlab is the open source, portable, and extensible system for the processing and editing of unstructured 3D triangular meshes.

Rapman sites by users

  • Planet RepRap. This is an aggregator that pulls in information from many sources.

Shared designs

See 3D assets for a longer list

Print services

If you like your prototype and want it printed more professionally. Several kinds of materials, including metal...

  • Shapeways. They take STL, VRML, Collada & X3D formats with some constraints, e.g. less than 500'000 polygons, a watertight mesh, etc.
  • Sculpteo

Propaganda

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