Fabbster 3D printer: Difference between revisions

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The '''Fabbster''' is a low cost [[3D printing|3D printer]] kit that can be assembled in about 4 hours.
==Introduction==
The '''Fabbster''' is a low cost [[3D printing|3D printer]] kit that can be assembled by people with some do-it-yourself skills.


Soon - [[User:Daniel K. Schneider|Daniel K. Schneider]] 14:11, 24 April 2012 (CEST)
'''Important'''. This article refers to a '''"pilot program" printer''' and the draft manual version 1.10 and '''not''' the "final" home-user version. - [[User:Daniel K. Schneider|Daniel K. Schneider]] 14:11, 24 April 2012
 
See also:
 
* [[Fabbster assembly]] (some assembly notes)
* [[Fabbster testing and setup]] (including software installation and calibration)
* [[Netfabb engine for RepRap]] (notes and links for the control and slicer program)
* [[Netfabb engine for fabbster build styles]] (Styles you could use)
* [[:Category:3D printing|3D printing category]] and its [[:category:3D|3D parent category]]...


== The fabbster kit ==
== The fabbster kit ==
The fabbster is a kind of modified [http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Mendel Mendel design] that targets the home market.
[[image:fabbster-picture.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Picture taken from the [http://www.fabbster.com/forum.php?aid=825842962&pid=56 fabster forum] ]]
=== Where and what ===


''' Getting it'''
''' Getting it'''
The kit is sold [http://www.fabbster.com/buy.php through retailers] and costs about 1500 €  (incl. VAT., e.g. [http://www.schule-trifft-technik.de/ here]). I got ours for 500 € through their (March 2012) pilot program.  
The kit is sold [http://www.fabbster.com/buy.php through retailers] and costs about 1500 €  (incl. VAT., e.g. [http://www.schule-trifft-technik.de/ here]). It will be shipped sometimes soon (May 2012?). I got ours for 500 € through their (March 2012) pilot program.  


'''Software'''
'''Software'''


* A basic slicer program (STL to machine code configurator/translator) from [http://www.netfabb.com/basic.php Netfabb] is included in the price.
* A basic STL manipulation / slicer / control program (STL to machine code configurator/translator) from [http://www.netfabb.com/basic.php Netfabb] is included in the price. The machine code is closed source and not documented, meaning that you will have to use this Netfabb program.
* The printer comes with an electronic box that can print either through a connected PC or via an USB stick.
* The printer comes with an electronic box that can print either through a connected PC or via a SD card. You also can put a file on the SD, then launch it from the PC (this is better solution for large files)
* Driver software for Windows XP/VISTA/7 can be [http://wiki.fabbster.com/Nf_installation downloaded] from the wiki.
* Driver software for Windows XP/VISTA/7 can be [http://wiki.fabbster.com/Nf_installation downloaded] from the wiki.


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* Most of the structure uses so-called "cassettes", i.e. good for most everything 8.5x7.6cm plastic parts
* Most of the structure uses so-called "cassettes", i.e. good for most everything 8.5x7.6cm plastic parts
* Most screws and bolts have the same size.
* Most screws and bolts have the same size.
=== Assembly ===
* See [[Fabbster assembly]] (some assembly notes)


'''The assembly manual'''
'''The assembly manual'''
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* support forums
* support forums


== Assembly ==
'''Build time''' depends:
 
* On your DYI skills
'''Important disclaimer'''. These tips refer to a pilot program machine and beta manual version 1.10. The model that will be shipped to normal customers might be different: Colors may change, manual will change, etc. - [[User:Daniel K. Schneider|Daniel K. Schneider]] 17:12, 25 April 2012 (CEST).
* On your technical reading skills
 
* On your capacity to follow instructions (undoing is easy, but adds time)
Below, we shall not describe the whole assembly since there is a good manual. We just will write down some tips and problems we found.
* On how well you want it to be done
 
* On how fast (without breaks etc) you plan to work
=== Preparation ===
 
[[image:fabbster-1.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - Arrival]]
; Retrieve it
 
* Before you open the boxes, take a picture. This makes an nice souvenir. More importantly such a picture is useful in case something is damaged as I learned just a week ago. I also ordered a (pre-assembled Felixprinter) and on arrival it was broken. Must have fallen off a truck or something.
 
; Inventory
 
* Open the box. Ideally you should have a fairly big table at your disposal during assembly.
* Make inventory of the parts (I skipped that). The manual includes a part list
[[image:fabbster-2.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - Box content]]
[[image:fabbster-3.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - Box content]]
[[image:fabbster-4.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - Rods and cassettes]]
[[image:fabbster-5.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - Little boxes]]
 
; Tools needed
* Most tools needed come with the kit: a hammer, 2 allen keys and cutting pliers (clippers)
* Additional tools suggested: A ruler, a (cheap) electronic caliper, plastic tape, 1 2nd allen key (like the bigger green one, preferably a high-quality smaller one with a ball end)
* You can use an electric screwdriver, but '''use minimal force'''
 
; Mental preparation
 
* Look at the pictures at the end of the manual in order to understand what you are going to build
 
; Suggestion for the end-user manual
* Insert a graphic upfront that labels the most important elements (axis, names of the motors)
 
 
[[image:fabbster-6.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - Table layout]]
; Table
 
* Bigger is better
 
 
[[image:fabbster-7.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - Motor on cassette assembly]]
=== Step 1 - p. 10 ===
 
Manual improvement:
* The icon of the B4 screw should be changed, it's really small and black. Although it's ok in the detailed picture.
 
Tips:
* To keep the two big nuts in place, use some light tape. This allows to put the motor on the table and the plastic on top and you then can add the 4 screws and push in the orange part. You can pull out the tape before you enter the screw (do the other 3 first).
* The orange pulley is hard to push onto the motor shaft. Don't push it too far since it is difficult to pull it out again.
 
 
[[image:fabbster-8.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - Y-axis cassette assembly ]]
[[image:fabbster-9.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - Y-axis cassette assembly ]]
=== Steps 2 & 3 - p. 11/12 ===
 
Tips:
* Insert the E4 clamps first
* Tape down the 9 nuts and put the cassette on the table (nuts down)
* Insert the bolts in the other cassette, turn it and press it onto the table so that the bolts will move in.
* Alternatively (faster): Put 4 corner bolts on the table, cassette on top, then insert 4 bolts, then the rest one by one
* The head of a B1 bolt is about 5mm (helps positioning the rod)
 
=== Step 4 ===
 
; Manual
* Not clear how far to push in the rods (5mm like above) ?
 
;Tips
* none, this is an easy step. Well, don't forget to push in both rods first.
 
[[image:fabbster-11.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - y-axis front end ]]
=== Step 5  ===
 
* This will create a part of the y axis (opposite the motor in step 7)
 
Tips:
* Be careful not to forget the anything !
* Holes for the clamps are bit too narrow. Try to push the clamps in with a rod
* Put 4 cassettes under the lower cassette in order to be able to work on it (picture)
* Make sure that the assemble cassettes remain in the middle of the rod (edge to edge distances about 16cm)
 
=== Step 6  ===
 
Tips:
* Turn the cassette up, pull out the belt, before inserting the rods
* The linear bearings C2 are in the little blue boxes.
 
=== Step 7 ===
 
Tips:
* Verify that the motor is well attached, i.e. tighten the screws if needed
* Verify that the orange pulley is pushed into the motor shaft like it should, i.e. about 2mm left. Use your new fancy blue pliers to cut a small piece of a 2mm thick object and put it in the hole. A standard small match that you can get for free is about 2mm in diameter
* Make sure that the clamps are well in place
* Finally: remember that it's useless to tighten the screws a lot since you will have to calibrate the whole geometry later, i.e. you will have to pull cassettes out so that the belts are tight and the whole is a prefect rectangle.
 
=== Step 8 ===
 
Tips:
* Again: You could put three other cassettes underneath the bottom cassette in order to work on it comfortably
* Make sure the that linear bearings fit snugly into place. They should not move.
* Make sure that the belt touches the bottom of the cassette. Only then add the little green piece that will block the belt.
* Then screw 4 corners first and the remove support cassettes and do the rest.
 
[[image:fabbster-12.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - z-axis lower end]]
[[image:fabbster-13.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - z-axis lower end]]
=== Steps 9 & 12 ===
 
Tips
* Tighten the screws of the motor
* If you prefer working "flat", look at the picture to the right
* Leave the nuts quite loose, because you will have to insert rods in step 10
 
=== Steps 10 & 13 ===
(easy)
* Tighten the bolts a bit
 
[[image:fabbster-13.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - z-axis top end before assembly]]
=== Steps 11 & 14 ===
 
Tips:
* Make sure that the bearings are well pushed down into the casing of the cassette
* Make sure that the belt turns
 
[[image:fabbster-15.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - z-axis structure assembled]]
[[image:fabbster-16.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - z-axis top]]
 
=== Step 15 ===
(easy)
 
Tips:
* Insert the rods first
* Lower rod is towards front, upper towards back
* Calibrate a bit: Upper rod should stick in like the lower (i.e. each rod should be pushed in about 5mm. Use the cap of a black (normal) bolt as cue. It's 5mm.
 
[[image:fabbster-17.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - x-motor on z-axis - bad start, belt is outside]]
=== Step 16 ===
 
X-axis motor on the z-axis (moving up and down)
 
Tips:
* Push in 6 black bolts first (middle and outside)
* Make sure that the linear bearings fit snugly, and then push the cassette down
* Do not forget that the belt (one end) must be inside (that was my only big mistake so far and I discovered it on Step 18 ...)
* Do not tighten since you will have to push in rods in step 17
* Finally I find it easier to do step 18 first
 
=== Step 17 ===
 
(easy, but don't forget the linear bearings !)
 
=== Step 18 ===
 
X-axis - the other end
 
This is the most difficult assembly step so far. You may ask a person to help.
 
Tips:
* Push in 6 black bolts first (middle and outside)
* Make sure that the linear bearings fit snugly, and then push the cassette down
* Keep one side of the belt inside
 
[[image:fabbster-18.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - X-axis, before mounting the extruder cassette]]
=== Step 19===
 
Cassette for extruder
 
Tips:
* As always, make sure that every thing fits. In particular, be careful to stick the belt "behind" the green piece that will block it.
* In case the belt is too tight (was my case), adjust the geometry, uptight the 4x2 bolts that hold the 3 lower and the upper horizontal rod and ''gently'' hammer the cassettes in.
 
[[image:fabbster-19.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - Planetary gear for the extruder]]
=== Step 20 ===
 
Extruder motor
 
Tips:
* Attach the green casing to the motor first. Tighten the screws.
* Push down the little orange center gear. I used the hole of cassette for starters, then a border
* Grease the planet gears (inside) and assemble. I put the gears into the casing and then added the top, but there may be a better way ....
* Test if you can turn it. There is some resistance though.
 
=== Step 21 ===
 
(easy, attach the motor to the x-axis cassette)
 
[[image:fabbster-20.jpg|thumb|right|100px|none|Fabbster - Calibrating the position of the Z axis]]
=== Steps 22 and 23 ===
Calibration
 
Tips:
* Open the green plastic box (electronics) and remove the SD card that is taped there.
* Insert the 2 bolts like in the picture (right)
* Then make the case with the electronics fit (distance between the cassettes is about 12cm (a tiny bit less)
* You now likely will have to push the whole vertical frame backwards or forwards a bit
* You probably will have to loosen at least 2x6 of the bolts
* On the other side, I did not attache the other e-box part, but I used a caliper (faster and probably more precise)
 
=== Step 24 ===
 
Calibration continued (y-axis belt)


Tips:
In my opinion, it can be anything between '''three''' and '''thirty''' hours (or more if you make a lot of mistakes). It took me about 22 hours (including initial testing, wiki writing etc.). Pure assembling therefore took less. But I do count problem-solving and basic testing as "build time".
* Loosen the bolts of the three font cassettes (if needed). I.e. I suggest loosing the 3x5 that are close to the rods.
* Then do the 16cm - 16cm calibration of the y axis (both in front and back). The point is that this axis should be at 90 degrees. Also, you should anticipate step 26, i.e. also try to get the x-axis belt tight.
* Then hammer ''a tiny bit'' on each outer cassette until the middle y-axis belt (that will move the platform) is tight.
* I also suggest using a caliper to make distances on both sides equal. I got distances of about 125.8 mm, but this can be different on yours. Depends on how far you pushed in your rods. The more rectangular you geometry is, the better print quality will be (that's what I learned from my [[RapMan]]
* In order to test tension (2-3 seconds of vibration), move the gliding cassette to one end. Belts should be tight, but not too tight. Very short vibes means too tight.


=== Step 25 ===
'''Important''': Build time refers to the '''pilot version'''. The final home-user version should take much less time.


Calibration of z-axis
Quality of the '''draft''' manual:


Tips:
The draft manual is well done, but should be improved a bit as most pilot participants pointed out, e.g.
* Listen to the sound of the vibrating belts, left and right must be same
* some mistakes must (will) be fixed,
* Slide the y-axis (extruder) up/down, it should be smooth
* some explanations must (will) be added,
* Once your are done, tighten the lateral bolts
* Insert upfront a graphic that labels the most important elements (axis, names of the motors). e.g. see [http://edutechwiki.unige.ch/en/File:Rapman-3-1-schema.jpg this]. Users must understand what they are building. Some won't ....


=== Step 26 ===
Quality of parts of the '''pilot model'''
* Some parts don't fit well: Fabbster is in the process of fixing this
* 1-2 parts need a redesign: Fabbster is in the process of fixing this
* The testing/calibration/software installation part is currently badly documented: Fabbster will fix this too I hope :)


Calibration of x-axis
If I had to assemble a second one, I'd certainly do it in 4 hours but then I wouldn't. Once every two years is enough (see [[RapMan]]).


Tips:
== First impressions ==
* This is probably the most difficult to fix, since you will have to work on 8 cassettes, i.e. 4 rods. Loosen all the upper rods if hammering doesn't work
* I was lucky and didn't have to change anything, since I paid attention to this step already in step 24 :)


=== Step 26 ===
I didn't play for a long time with this printer yet. With respect to the [[RapMan]] it is easier to assemble (however some parts didn't fit too well and needed filing or hammering, and that is being fixed by fabbster). The geometry and the belts are much easier to calibrate and it can print faster.


'''Final test'''
So far, I didn't manage to create any high quality prints, since the extruder of this printer is designed to work with sticks that will arrive later. 3mm plastic rolls work fine if you keep to medium width. Very low RPM does not work for me. Below a picture of some of the first prints. Too much material on the roofs, and a bit too much in the walls (you can see squeeze on the lady) but that can and will be fixed - [[User:Daniel K. Schneider|Daniel K. Schneider]] 12:45, 12 May 2012 (CEST)
* All three cassettes on the axis move nicely
* All belts vibrate 2-3 seconds
* The geometry should be strictly equal distances between cassettes and 90 degree angles
* If something is wrong, repeat any steps 22-26 above


* Now tighten '''all''' the bolts. However, there is not need to tighten like a nut (pun intended). If you tighten too much, you could squeeze the linear bearings or even break something.
[[image:fabbster-prints-first-3-6.jpg|thumb|none|600px|First 3-6 prints with the fabbster prototype]]


Also, I didn't manage to print with (old transparent and brittle) PLA so far ...


== After ==
(by [[User:Daniel K. Schneider|Daniel K. Schneider]] ([[User talk:Daniel K. Schneider|talk]]) 16:27, 22 October 2020 (CEST))


Fabbster never managed to deliver what they promised:
* Firstly, it took them ages to explain folks how to use it with standard filament, see my own contribution in [[Netfabb engine for fabbster build styles]].
* Second, they never got the sticks mechanics and economics going...
* Third, it took them a long time to make the frame rigid enough and to build a decent enough extruder.


---- to be continued.
Finally, they stopped the project. After trying hard to make this printer work I got my [[Felix 1.0 3D printer]] which did its job better (and as of 2020 it actually still works, although I don't use it anymore). Some years later I gave the fabbster to a student, telling her that trying to make it work is a learning experience but that she should not take it as a punishment. The only really positive experience was the Netfabb slicer that we got, probably because the company behind the project (Sintemask) built commercial 3D printers and had good relations with Netfabb. Back then, a really advanced (but proprietary) software, e.g. one could define "styles" for given regions.


== Links ==
== Links ==
Line 285: Line 108:


* [http://www.fabbster.com/ Fabbster] Home
* [http://www.fabbster.com/ Fabbster] Home
* [http://www.fabbster.com/forum.php Fabbster forums]]
* [http://www.fabbster.com/forum.php Fabbster forums]
* [http://wiki.fabbster.com  Fabbster wiki] (Includes all the documentation). Sometimes, a wiki page just links to a file, e.g.
* [http://wiki.fabbster.com  Fabbster wiki] (Includes all the documentation). Sometimes, a wiki page just links to a file, e.g.
** [http://wiki.fabbster.com/images/9/90/Aufbauhandbuch_fabbster_1.11.pdf assembly handbook]
** [http://wiki.fabbster.com/images/9/90/Aufbauhandbuch_fabbster_1.11.pdf assembly handbook]
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[[Category: 3D printing]]
[[Category: 3D printing]]
[[Category: Fabbster 3D printer]]
[[Category: Hardware]]
[[Category: Hardware]]

Latest revision as of 00:55, 10 April 2021

Introduction

The Fabbster is a low cost 3D printer kit that can be assembled by people with some do-it-yourself skills.

Important. This article refers to a "pilot program" printer and the draft manual version 1.10 and not the "final" home-user version. - Daniel K. Schneider 14:11, 24 April 2012

See also:

The fabbster kit

The fabbster is a kind of modified Mendel design that targets the home market.

Picture taken from the fabster forum

Where and what

Getting it The kit is sold through retailers and costs about 1500 € (incl. VAT., e.g. here). It will be shipped sometimes soon (May 2012?). I got ours for 500 € through their (March 2012) pilot program.

Software

  • A basic STL manipulation / slicer / control program (STL to machine code configurator/translator) from Netfabb is included in the price. The machine code is closed source and not documented, meaning that you will have to use this Netfabb program.
  • The printer comes with an electronic box that can print either through a connected PC or via a SD card. You also can put a file on the SD, then launch it from the PC (this is better solution for large files)
  • Driver software for Windows XP/VISTA/7 can be downloaded from the wiki.

Materials

  • Custom made ABS sticks or 3mm ABS rolls
  • PLA sticks or rolls

The parts

Unlike the RapMan, the fabbster is based on very few different kinds of parts:

  • Most of the structure uses so-called "cassettes", i.e. good for most everything 8.5x7.6cm plastic parts
  • Most screws and bolts have the same size.

Assembly

The assembly manual

  • Assembly is described in a bilingual German/English assembly handbook (Version 1.10 is a color PDF file in A4 portrait format and includes 57 pages and about 42 for the assembly process itself.
  • Steps are explained on sheets that included the following information:
    • Parts (prepare them first)
    • A graphic explaining the assembly step
    • Some detail views
    • A global progress view

Other documentation

  • Wiki
  • support forums

Build time depends:

  • On your DYI skills
  • On your technical reading skills
  • On your capacity to follow instructions (undoing is easy, but adds time)
  • On how well you want it to be done
  • On how fast (without breaks etc) you plan to work

In my opinion, it can be anything between three and thirty hours (or more if you make a lot of mistakes). It took me about 22 hours (including initial testing, wiki writing etc.). Pure assembling therefore took less. But I do count problem-solving and basic testing as "build time".

Important: Build time refers to the pilot version. The final home-user version should take much less time.

Quality of the draft manual:

The draft manual is well done, but should be improved a bit as most pilot participants pointed out, e.g.

  • some mistakes must (will) be fixed,
  • some explanations must (will) be added,
  • Insert upfront a graphic that labels the most important elements (axis, names of the motors). e.g. see this. Users must understand what they are building. Some won't ....

Quality of parts of the pilot model

  • Some parts don't fit well: Fabbster is in the process of fixing this
  • 1-2 parts need a redesign: Fabbster is in the process of fixing this
  • The testing/calibration/software installation part is currently badly documented: Fabbster will fix this too I hope :)

If I had to assemble a second one, I'd certainly do it in 4 hours but then I wouldn't. Once every two years is enough (see RapMan).

First impressions

I didn't play for a long time with this printer yet. With respect to the RapMan it is easier to assemble (however some parts didn't fit too well and needed filing or hammering, and that is being fixed by fabbster). The geometry and the belts are much easier to calibrate and it can print faster.

So far, I didn't manage to create any high quality prints, since the extruder of this printer is designed to work with sticks that will arrive later. 3mm plastic rolls work fine if you keep to medium width. Very low RPM does not work for me. Below a picture of some of the first prints. Too much material on the roofs, and a bit too much in the walls (you can see squeeze on the lady) but that can and will be fixed - Daniel K. Schneider 12:45, 12 May 2012 (CEST)

First 3-6 prints with the fabbster prototype

Also, I didn't manage to print with (old transparent and brittle) PLA so far ...

After

(by Daniel K. Schneider (talk) 16:27, 22 October 2020 (CEST))

Fabbster never managed to deliver what they promised:

  • Firstly, it took them ages to explain folks how to use it with standard filament, see my own contribution in Netfabb engine for fabbster build styles.
  • Second, they never got the sticks mechanics and economics going...
  • Third, it took them a long time to make the frame rigid enough and to build a decent enough extruder.

Finally, they stopped the project. After trying hard to make this printer work I got my Felix 1.0 3D printer which did its job better (and as of 2020 it actually still works, although I don't use it anymore). Some years later I gave the fabbster to a student, telling her that trying to make it work is a learning experience but that she should not take it as a punishment. The only really positive experience was the Netfabb slicer that we got, probably because the company behind the project (Sintemask) built commercial 3D printers and had good relations with Netfabb. Back then, a really advanced (but proprietary) software, e.g. one could define "styles" for given regions.

Links

Official
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