Felix Pro 2 3D printer: Difference between revisions
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Printing with PETG | Printing with PETG | ||
* Layer size = 0.7 | |||
* Extrusion = 100% | |||
* PETG can roughly be printed between 230-260 degrees and , try 240-250 with a 0.7mm nozzle | * PETG can roughly be printed between 230-260 degrees and , try 240-250 with a 0.7mm nozzle | ||
* Take retraction away if you print fast | * Take retraction away if you print fast | ||
* Remove filament detection, i.e. send the | * Remove filament detection, i.e. send the following g-code in the startup script: <code>M602 S0 P1</code> | ||
* Add banging floors into the wall. | * Add banging floors into the wall (e.g. 50%) | ||
* Infill 20% hexadecimal or some other that works well with higher speed. | |||
[[category: Felix 3D printer]] | [[category: Felix 3D printer]] |
Revision as of 18:10, 11 December 2020
Introduction
The Felix Pro 2 is a 3D printer made by FELIXprinters and that started shipping in December 201?. It features auto-calibration of the print bed, a dual head, etc. and strong, reliable steel extruders. Our machine was upgraded from the Pro 1 to a Pro 2. Print quality seems to be better.
See also:
- RapMan (our first 3D printer assembled in Jan 2010, not used any more, but no modern printer will beat its look)
- Fabbster 3D printer (given away)
- Felix 1.0 3D printer (bought in 2012 and still working)
- Felix 2.0 3D printer (bought in 2013 and still working)
- Felix Pro 2 3D printer (bought in 2015)
- Felix TEC-4.1 3D printer (bought in nov 2018)
This article will only include new information with respect to Felix TEC-4.1 3D printer, e.g. filament settings and things to do with the extruder or slicers
Clearning the drive gear
- Extruder jammin" could mean that are is some debris in the extruder, i.e. the drive gear
Disassembling is a lot of work, try the following first:
- Open flap in front
- Take out hot-end
- Look from the bottom into the extruder, you will see the toothed drive_gear.
- Use a tweezer to clean out the teeth. It takes a little time, but saves you the hassle of disassembly.
Printing with a 0.7 mm nozzle
- More extrusions, more heat, disable filament detection
Printing with PETG
- Layer size = 0.7
- Extrusion = 100%
- PETG can roughly be printed between 230-260 degrees and , try 240-250 with a 0.7mm nozzle
- Take retraction away if you print fast
- Remove filament detection, i.e. send the following g-code in the startup script:
M602 S0 P1
- Add banging floors into the wall (e.g. 50%)
- Infill 20% hexadecimal or some other that works well with higher speed.