Stitch Era - free standing lace

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Revision as of 16:14, 24 August 2017 by Daniel K. Schneider (talk | contribs) (Created page with "{{embroidery|Intermediary tutorial}} {{stub}} == Introduction == According to [http://community.annthegran.com/post/2009/05/15/freestanding-lace-~-how-why-where!! Rick Macal...")
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Draft

Introduction

According to Rick Macali] (retrieved 8/2017), “Freestanding lace (FSL) designs are embrodery designs that are stitched on a special stabilizer that dissolves in water .. what you are left with is the FSL design or designs. Digitizing for lace is much different than digitizing for standard embroidery designs. Only designs digitized for freestanding lace designs will be stable after the stabilizer is washed away .. other designs will typically fall apart.FSL designs have much higher density segments, or a much higher stitch count versus non-lace embroidery designs. A digitizers goal with non-lace embroidery designs is to create a beautiful piece of embroidery with as few stitches as possible, when digitizing for lace, the stitch count is incredibly higher. If you see spaces between your stitches, that is a tell-tale sign that your lace won't hold up when the stabilizer is removed. The satin, or zigzag stitches need to be tight with a high stitch count. Some embroiderers rely upon the weave of the fabric to support the segments, but, I like to digitize a run stitch under the satin segment and that will support the lace.”

Digitizing FSL

Stitching FSL

  • Use a water soluble stabilizer, usually two layers or more. The thicker the lace the more stabilizer.
  • Speed: around 500-600 (since the stabilizer is not a strong tissue)
  • Use the same color for the bobbin. In principle one should use cotton. (I will first try the same thread as above).

Links

Digitizing free standing lace

Tutorials on how to "print" an FSL design (retrieved in Aug. 2017). These tutorials explain some physical principles, give tips on stabilizers, hooping, threads, etc.