Hooping and stabilizing in computerized embroidery: Difference between revisions
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== Hooping == | == Hooping == | ||
Correct hooping together with appropriate backing | Correct hooping together with appropriate backing (stabilizing are important factors for creating embroidery that will stay flat (more or less) and look like on the computer screen. On the software side you also have to take material constraints into consideration, e.g. add pull and push compensation or adapt densities or even the whole design. | ||
There are two basic ways of hooping. | |||
* Attach a stabilizer (also called backing to the fabric) and hoop both together | |||
* Hoop only the stabilizer and just put the fabric on top, e.g. using fixation glue or an auto-adhesive stabilizer. The latter method is used for creating [[embroider patches]], but can also be used in "normal" situations. | |||
=== Testing the tension === | === Testing the tension === | ||
Revision as of 11:35, 15 December 2017
Introduction
Hooping
Correct hooping together with appropriate backing (stabilizing are important factors for creating embroidery that will stay flat (more or less) and look like on the computer screen. On the software side you also have to take material constraints into consideration, e.g. add pull and push compensation or adapt densities or even the whole design.
There are two basic ways of hooping.
- Attach a stabilizer (also called backing to the fabric) and hoop both together
- Hoop only the stabilizer and just put the fabric on top, e.g. using fixation glue or an auto-adhesive stabilizer. The latter method is used for creating embroider patches, but can also be used in "normal" situations.
Testing the tension
A well hooped fabric must be tight.
The snow plow test
Glide your finger on the hooped tissue. It should not create "waves"....
The drum test
Tap on the hooped textile. If it sounds like a drum you are fine. This applies to non-elastic tissues without using a stabilizer and elastic tissues that you stabilized (as you should in any case)
Use of stabilizers
There are several types of stabilizers, e.g.
- Water soluble: Used for freestanding lace (FSL) and also as topping for some fabrics, e.g. towels
- Self-adhesive tear away: Used for heavy fabrics (but also lighter and softer ones with less good results since it is not very strong, but it is the most easy to use)
- Tear away: Medium-heavy woven fabrics and sturdy fabrics. This has to be ironed or glued to the fabric depending on the brand.
- Polyester mesh cut away: Used for T-shirts and similar
- Cut-away: pullovers and such
The Brother PR1050X Operation manual (p. 254) recommends fabric/stabilizer combinations of which we reproduce some modified excerpts:
| Fabric/Garment | No. of Backing Pieces | No. of Topping Pieces | Comments |
|---|---|---|---|
| Denim | 1 tear-away | None | Lower speed if problems |
| Terry cloth (bath towels) | 1 tear-away | 1 water soluble | Increase density and avoid small lettering. |
| Fine woven shirts | 1 tear-away | None | For high-density or highly detailed designs use two pieces of lightweight backing |
| Golf shirt | 1 cut-away | Optional | |
| Corduroy | 1 tear-away | 1 water-soluble | Use denser stitcher or denser/more understiches. |
| Lingerie or silk | 1 or 2 lightweight tear-away | Optional | Reduce sewing speed |
| Knitting (sweater) | 1 cut-away or adhesive tear-away | 1 water-soluble | Use tightly woven organza or curtain fabric in a matching color if knits have holes. |
| Sweatshirt | 1 cut-away or adhesive tear-away | Optional | Two layers for detailed designs |
| T-shirt | 1 light-weight cut-away or adhesive tear-away | Optional | Avoid stitch-heavy designs and make them low tension. |
As general rule:
- Any fabric needs a stabilizer. If you are lazy use at least the auto-adhesive one.
- Very small lettering needs topping on most fabrics.
- Fine fabrics should use cut-away stabilizers. These are nicer to wear and some offer extra stability.